Brentford to Limehouse... and beyond
Saturday 13 December
Arrived at H.N.A. at 0930, beating Ian Maclachlan by about 45 seconds! Harold, dedicated as ever, also arrived to see us off, helping to wind Spirit outside the H.Q. something not normally done. Event-free travel down through Cowley with Philip learning the ropes & doing very well. Although according to a Michael Essex-Lopresti lookalike near the Slough Arm, he was making a pig's ear of it!Mr. Grumpy well astern, we pressed on in the gathering gloom & to my first strip-off of the day to unravel a length of the ubiquitous blue rope from Spirit's prop. Why is it always blue? It's as bad as belly-button fluff! Ian breasted the boats so as not to lose time whilst I grovelled in the bowels. Arrived at The Fox about 18:30 & settled down gratefully to some Adnam's & Timmy Taylor's Landlord.A surreal experience as a man of mystery appeared before us, dressed in a long leather coat & black headscarf, worn bandana fashion down his back. He told us awful tales of doom-laden warning--something about a surge tide threatening to wash Spirit & Star clean away if we weren't 'begone' by 21:00!!!We were--& in pitch darkness followed Star's rear navigation light all the way to Brentford. At the gauging lock we ran into a small problem-- it was shut & unpowered!
Brentford Gauging Lock Building
Oh no!! I had advised Barry Trimmer, he of the Linslade jaunt, to meet me at Thames Lock, also Di, Phil's wife had similar instructions. After trudging around to Thames Lock & finding Sam the lockeeper who was earmarked to let us out on Sunday at 05:30 he assured me that the gauging lock would come online at 05:00 & then we could easily make the optimum tide-time from his lock. After a lot of to-ing & fro-ing on my part, everyone was appraised of the situation & we finally swapped Phil for Barry & settled down for a couple of hours kip at 23:45.
Sunday 14 DecemberA fitful night ended abruptly at 04:45 as my alarm sounded simultaneously with a frantic rapping on the roof from the 'Star Children.' Sam was as good as his word & by 05:15 both boats were in the gauging lock. Harold's carefully constructed navigation lights proudly displayed on Spirit's front roof, we all too soon were on the tideway & speeding down river towards Limehouse.
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Star's more suitable propellor soon left us way astern. So much for assistance if we broke down! It was only after a frantic phone call to Ian re our heavy smoke-making & sluggish progress that they agreed to slow down & we finally saw them again as they passed under Tower Bridge. Spirit then suffered the indignity of a police raid boarding party where we were asked our identities, ages, purpose of trip, details of H.N.A., length of boat--you name it--they wanted to know it! This perhaps was to make up for the fact that we asked permission to navigate Westminster Bridge via a phone call to a number supplied by the P.L.A. only to receive no reply!
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As our unexpected guests left us, we followed across river to enter Limehouse Marina--me having phoned from Tower Bridge to ask for the lock to be set for us. With no more ado we entered the lock &, on sailing in to the Marina, tied up & inspected the weed hatch--not much to show for all the earlier smoke when Barry & I were in the middle of what seemed to be a four-pump fire--I gave all that up last week!
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Oil & water also were at normal levels, so after some abortive fishing we pushed on up the River Lea. After five locks, two electric, two manual & a hybrid we called it a day just above Enfield Lock. The exhaust was blowing really badly & the engine compartment was covered in soot. We have been subjected to sooty smoke all day & my eyes were stinging badly. There was a substantial loss of power due to the blown exhaust & called Harold to pick his brains. He in turn suggested I call Tim who told me that Harold & himself would try to work something out with regard to a rescue mission. Still, we did manage to get the heating going--lovely!Monday 15 DecemberAwoke to a very frosty, icy morning. The stern deck was like a veritable skating rink. The weed hatch was literally freezing my fingers as I confirmed that no rubbish was around the prop. & that oil & water were O.K. Tim phoned about four times all told & we arranged to go to Rammey Marsh Lock to await a mechanic. By the time we reached it the sun was out & I fished in glorious heat--no hat--no gloves--amazing! One more phone call from Tim revealed that no mechanic was forthcoming & could we limp to Springfield Marina, about four hours downstream where they promised to look at the exhaust?We had to ascend Rammey Marsh Lock to wind just above it, finally setting off back towards home at 12:35. Barry had cleared the air filter of accumulated crud & with some deck boards lifted to air the engine, power was in abundance & the exhaust smoke down to tolerable levels. So much so that I decided we could make a run for home without troubling Springfield Marina, save a courtesy call to report that they were not needed. Whilst there I picked their brains to find that The Anchor & Hope half a mile downstream didn't do food but the Princess of Wales one mile downstream did. We arrived outside the pub at 17:20, tied to the railings, staggered gratefully the 25 feet to the bar & had a glorious meal that didn't consist entirely of bacon & eggs!Tuesday 16 DecemberThis morning Spirit wore a sparkling coat as frost & ice lay thickly upon her. Apparently it was - 4 last night although, perversely, we were both as warm as toast, compared to the previous night. Up & 08:20 & attempting to fish as the river bubbled & popped--akin to heavy drinker, having had a skinful the night before, along with a large curry, relaxing in the bath. Despite the activity in the H20, there was none on my hook. After a pointless piscatorial probing & a few friendly chats with passers-by we left the very pleasant mooring hard by Lea Bridge Road, having recorded for posterity the site on our cameras.
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Lea Bridge, Clapton
The Lea maintained an oily besmirched appearance all the way to Duckett's Cut where the contrast was astonishing. The water was very deep & gin-clear, allowing one to see the detritus on the canal bottom. On into the Regent's Canal we moored above Old Ford Lock for some more piscine playtime but unfortunately with a familiar result.
Pushing on, we reached Battlebridge Basin which contains The Canal Museum. Threading our way through the many moored craft we came broadside into a 71 foot gap with all 70 feet sliding into place like a hand in a glove--easy!! Pausing only to include ourselves on the museum's newsletter website we came on through to St.Pancras cruising club's site where Dave kindly let us moor for the night. We were able to gain towpath access via the all-important BW key & thence to an excellent fish supper at the Royal Fish Bar in Royal College Street, followed by a pint in The Constitution. On returning to the boat we then exited the club via the Camley Street entrance & had a walk around the vast Channel Tunnel Rail Link site, emerging into King's Cross where we 'happened' upon the Waterside Inn in Crinan Street off of York Way where we indulged in another pint before returning back to the (very hot) boat via the canal towpath by 23:20.Wednesday 17 DecemberMainly because of the boat's heating last night had made the cabin as hot as a tropical rain forest, sleep came easily to us both &, even on waking, the temperature didn't seem too bad at 08:20. Full advantage was taken of St Pancras' facilities--I used the loo (heaven) & we, after both showering, filled up both water tanks. Before the showers I had to pull Spirit out of the way of the 'Floating Classroom' a wide, rectangular boat making its way to the Canal Museum. Any other boat would have got into the lock with no bother but this boat was big! As the sun came up blindingly over the gasholders astern it was unbelievably warm as I fished unsuccessfully once again with no coat, hat or gloves--astounding!Around 11:00 we made our departure thanking Dave of St. Pancras once again for allowing us to moor overnight. We threaded our way carefully through the bridge works associated with the rail link & set course for Little Venice. Camden's three locks were negotiated with the smallest number of gongoozlers I've ever known desite the weather being glorious if a little cold. Upon reaching Little Venice we took the arm into the wonderfully re-furbished Paddington Basin & moored amongst a plethora of skyscrapers.
Paddington Basin
Once again I drowned a few maggots for no reward whatsoever but gazed in awe at the surroundings, trying to picture them next summer when the fashionistas will promenade in the achingly-hip piazzas.
at 14:30 we puttered slowly out of London's newest place to see & be seen & returned to the lowly canal route to Bull's Bridge in Hayes. The temperature meanwhile plummeted &, as darkness fell, we actually carved our way through thin ice! at Bridgewater Road bridge on the outskirts of Wembley we almost collided with some painters working under it on a system of pontoons & planks! All I could(eventually) see in the gloom were several pairs of legs! There was a warning notice on the towpath. The trouble was it was dark & we were unable to read it until it was almost too late. Painters retired to one side, we slid under their planks with at least three inches to spare! I don't know what we were worried about!45 minutes later saw us gratefully tie up at The Black Horse, Greenford & some pints of Pride & good food.Thursday 18 December08:20 again & the sun struggled weakly over the Black Horse to feebly eradicate the frost & ice on the water. With us both abluted & cerealed we slid away at 10:30 for a slow run down to Bull's Bridge & a hot spot for fishing--until today!! I gave it an hour before moving on to Tesco's where Barry disappeared for hours to get milk & bread. His excuse was, the sheer range of goods on offer! He was like a child in Hamley's, wide-eyed with wonderment. The grotty section between Hayes & Cowley was given added interest by the spotting & retrieving of four floats& a spinner. Bearing in mind I was one float down on the deal because I carelessly placed the tiller bar on my 'running' float the other night. This meant that to be in profit I'd have to find at least two new ones! So, four & a spinner was adequate reward for the day. We thought we'd spotted the mother of all floats on a branch but it turned out to be merely a kingfisher.(!)As we were engaged on float-gathering, Harold phoned & told us that Star was at the Horse & Barge & could we please bring her back to H.Q in concert with Spirit? You betcha! A boat each--it just gets better & better!We decided to make a sojourn down the Slough Arm to the basin & what a spectacular trip it was! The ice lay up to an inch thick in places & only reluctantly screamed & shattered as Spirit made her inexorable progress to the basin adjacent to Shaggy Calf Lane & the Stoke Poges Road. 17:30 saw us gratefully moor up in thick ice at the basin. I could only get one pin in the ground & so secured the stern. The rest froze in overnight!Friday 19 DecemberAwoke in time for the 8 o'clock news, having been as warm as toast during the night. The reason was apparent as soon as I stuck my head out of the door. We had cloud cover in abundance & the ice had relaxed its grip on the canal! Make no mistake--it was still there in vast quantities but we're talking Don Estelle rather than Windsor Davies.We set off after a cuppa, effortlessly pushing large, if not thick, slabs of ice aside as we went. On the journey back to Cowley, the float coffers were topped up along with a couple of jointed plugs from the overhanging trees. Cowley lock had a sprinkling of gongoozlers as we started the ascent of the canal which only finishes atop the Chiltern Escarpment at Tring.Passing the moorings at Uxbridge I saw Mick & Martin--two firemen from Ealing who have just purchased a narrowboat there & are starting to get it up to scratch.The first firemen I've seen since retirement & they're into narrowboats--the omens are good!After Denhan Deep & onto the long straight stretch that leads to Widewater I looked through the binoculars to see Star moored, not outside the Horse & Barge, but apparently just outside the lock. On getting closer I realised she was in the lock. Faithful Harold had grown bored waiting for our arrival & so put Star in the lock to save us some time. Once Spirit was safely in alongside Star I left Barry with the helm whilst I steered Star home to Coppermill. I realised just how used to the blowing exhaust we'd become when Star sounded as smooth as a Rolls Royce! Barry had never imagined that he would be in charge of a 70 foot narrowboat, but here he was doing just that, negotiating the tricky fast water just outside Coppermill Lock like an old campaigner. With Star now breasted up to Spirit, we tied up outside H.N.A. & killed the engines at 16:30. A great 6 day adventure over!Barry Holland 19/12/03