Barry Holland's Log.

re: Returning the N.B. "Hillingdon Star" to HNA Boathouse, Harefield,  21st - 25th April 2003 from the Basingstoke Canal, via the Rivers Wey & Thames and the Grand Union Canal.

Easter Monday 21st April 2003 13:35

A ring of my doorbell signalled the fact that Laurie & Harold were without my domicile. Having completed my "packing" some twenty minutes previously, it was just a matter of swinging my sleeping bag over my shoulder & joining them both in Harold's car for a swift trip down the Hayes by-pass to pick up David, another "boat-recovery" man. From the edge of Hayes it was but a short hop onto the M4,M3 & arrival at Lock 15 just above Pirbright bridge by 15:00. Laurie, David & Harold elected to walk towards Brookwood & liaise with the  steerers group. Laurie had in fact spotted the two boats, Hillingdon Star & Spirit of '57 entering the Brookwood flight as we passed overhead at Brookwood bridge. I stood guard over Harold's car & drank in the picturesque surroundings

                                  

                                    Deepcut Pound                                                                           Star between locks on the Deepcut flight

50 yards above the bridge stood a lockkeeper's house opposite a winding hole. The canal surface was like polished glass-the sun twinkling & gleaming through the trees. A very old, large, black dog with white muzzle much in evidence slowly & painfully walked out from the garden of the house & half-heartedly explored the environs. My attempts to pet him were met with stunning indifference. I returned to Harold's car, noting with amusement that one of the white vans parked there with the legend "Basingstoke Canal Authority" emblazoned on the side had had the "C" carefully removed!

Suddenly, the boats arrived & the next few minutes were taken up with those going home being replaced by those bringing the boats home. Several of the company noticed the missing "C" with much ribaldry in evidence!

At last we were under way with me joining Ian ( H.N.A. chairman) & his family & friends on Star, while Laurie & David boarded Spirit of '57. All too soon we were steadily climbing the first of the Deepcut flight, the scenery improving all the while, in direct proportion to the "Army Noises" off in the trees. The railway kept us company up to & indeed past Lock 28, but, being Some 50' above us & on our left-hand side was strangely unobtrusive. Passing Wharfenden Lake which is accessed directly from the canal, I realised that the building, visible on the far shore was "The Lakeside Country Club", scene of many an exciting World Darts Championship.

Ian, suddenly put us on kingfisher alert as he dived down the rear steps of Star to retrieve his camcorder. Tony & I watched the hitherto-unnoticed-by-us iridescent blue halcyon as it sat in the tree. Then, before our very privileged eyes, it did what kingfishers do, it dived into the water, came up with a fish & returned to the tree branch, moving just a little further into the foliage, thus effectively screening itself from Ian's probing lens as he rushed back up the steps, "Is it still there?" was the pathetic cry. The grins on Tony's & my face told him the awful truth as, shoulders sagging, he returned the camcorder to its shelf deep within the bowels of Star.

At Ash Vale, just beyond the railway bridge, a forlorn, corrugated iron boathouse stood. Between 1918-1935, 15 barges were built. Ian being a local man (Yateley) remembered rowing boats being stored here some 10-15 years ago, now, alas it slumbers on into dereliction, ignored by one & all.

Ian's daughter & Tony & Lyn's two daughters left the boat at this point to do some car-shuffling while we carried on just a little further to the Swan at Heathvale Bridge, a very acceptable low-ceilinged, rambling Victorian Pub that has an extensive menu & some excellent 6X! The only reason I realised how cold I had got was the wall of heat that greeted me in the entrance hall. A pleasant couple of hours ensued with everyone leaving for home afterwards save Ian & myself who had the onerous task of crossing the large garden, going through the wicket gate & climbing aboard Star. A brief chat & then we repaired to either end of the boat & a date in the arms of Morpheus.

Tuesday 22nd April.

We may have been 60 odd feet apart but I had the waterpump at my end!

Consequently, when Ian arose at 06:00 his ablution operations dragged me back to the land of the living. I dozed fitfully, determined to still be in bed when Star moved off. In all my trips over the years I cannot recall ever having this luxury! I have to tell you all now-it's quite a pleasant sensation! Ian was waxing lyrical about an aqueduct shortly before the last lock on the canal, Ash Lock, by the time I joined him on the counter but was thinking of the time factor. He had to be back at Harefield by Thursday evening as his day job necessitated it. Therefore, a trip to the head of the navigation had already been discounted, a shame-but it would have taken another whole day to reach the end & back to where we currently were. Also Spirit of '57 was moored up somewhere down stream with Laurie, Eddie & David aboard.

We had to be entering the Deepcut flight by 09:00 to ensure passage through that day. The mooring wardens were much in evidence -- we'd already fallen foul of one of them yesterday, he had been dubbed "The Moan Ranger" because he'd "Not been notified" of our passage up the flight & had already started the overnight sealing of the locks when we came along. The water situation is such on the canal that bottom gates are left open with paddles raised in case of floods, yet the top gates have a mixture of soil & compost deposited via a long-handled shovel, set at right-angles, on the upstream side at their base, the theory being that this mixture is drawn by suction into the bottom of the top gates & prevents overnight loss of water (caulking). I have to say at this juncture that the authority seem to be slightly on the paranoid side when it comes to water levels. The rangers proudly boast that the canal is open all the year round (but they're not letting anyone know!) although the general perception is one of October to May, albeit the situation is being relieved by the installation of back-pumping on the Woodham flight and the soon-to-be-operative system on the Goldsworth flight at St. John's. This didn't prevent us from being stymied that evening-more of which later. For now the need to meet up with Spirit was more important. This occurred just downstream of Deepcut bridge & together we made for the top lock & a waterpoint adjacent to the dry dock behind a charming lockkeeper's cottage. We fell into an easy pattern of seven locks about until we arrived at Kiln bridge atop the Goldsworth flight. The warden had seen us earlier in the day at the top lock & informed us that we were the last boats down (09:10!!) it was now 14:50 & we were informed by the warden at Kiln Bridge that we were too late to descend the flight as 14:00 is the cut-off point! Ridiculous!

                     

                St Johns, Woking. Goldsworth Top Lock                                    Deepcut Top Lock, the Ranger's Cottage

With over six hours of daylight left we had to call a halt to proceedings -- it wouldn't have been so bad, the location was good, shops, restaurants, pubs all within easy reach, but I was without any fishing gear!! The piscine swine knew this as they tantalisingly rolled & blew bubbles (probably raspberries) at me for the next few hours. The others all repaired I know not where for the afternoon -- I wasn't in a drinking mood. The black gloom only lifted later at the local Indian Restaurant when we all enjoyed a great meal before sleeping the sleep that only goes with fresh air all day long.

Wednesday 23rd April.

08:00 Ian & I were having breakfast when Spirit sailed by -- the cries of "They're still eating breakfast!" goading us into action to join them in the descent of Goldsworth locks. A satisfying glide past Woking Town Centre -- how many times had I longingly gazed at the waterway from the adjacent road when doing delivery work around Woking in the early eighties! Indeed, it was when I crossed Kiln Bridge in the van one day that I first spied a painted board stating that volunteers were required to restore the Basingstoke Canal--a pipedream, surely!

                   

               Barry at the helm, passing Woking Town Centre                                 Woodham  accommodation

On leaving the conurbation astern, the canal took on a more secretive aspect as we pottered past back gardens that were more country estates by the size of them. Houses of dimensions I was more used to seeing on the Thames drifted by-most with moorings albeit mostly devoid of boats. A group of gongoozlers all very formally dressed expressed their delight at seeing the "canal being used by boats again" I offered "I hope it's not a sad occasion," I had spotted the black ties. It was indeed a funeral party but they had been greatly cheered by this unexpected traffic serenely gliding through their wake.

Horsell Common & Sheerwater came & went, Ian capturing on video a moorhen's nest full to overflowing with eggs, (I counted at least eight) this idyllic setting contrasting greatly with H.G. Wells' "War of the Worlds" which had its beginnings in this area, the first spacecraft landing on the common before the inexorable progress to London in the feared tripods.

Woodham top lock was negotiated by 11:30 – only just in time & before too long the M25 loomed on the skyline, denoting the Wey Navigation ahead. In blazing sunshine we stopped at the "White Hart" in New Haw (someone asked is there an old Haw to which there were many unprintable replies!) for a baguette lunch & a couple of pints of Bass.     

           Front left, clockwise , Laurie, Eddy, Ian, David and Barry at the White Hart

Lunch done it was on to Thames lock where many years ago, on my first canal trip, I was denied access to the Thames because Farncombe Boat House boats were not licenced for it. I was amazed that the lockkeeper knew this fact, naively supposing that he had far too much on his mind to keep account of the boats that pass through his lock when, in fact, it is his raison d'etre.

                      

                River Wey -  Thames Upper Staircase Lock                                     River Wey - Thames Lower staircase Lock

Thames lock is currently the site of a block of luxury apartments being built. I wonder how the lockkeeper feels about new neighbours when before it was all open space! The lock is divided into two drops, one of about six feet & one of about two. The second chamber is curved, leading one to believe that a further lock is beyond the bottom gates when in fact you're already in it! The extra drop was to accommodate fully laden barges that had difficulty getting over the cill after, Shepperton Lock was built on the Thames. Both boats were topped up with water whilst waiting for the exit onto the Thames & indeed David & Ian's conversation proved to be the last communication between the vessels as we left them in our wake, not to be seen again before we moored for the night. With plenty of water under her counter, Star flew along, negotiating Sunbury lock almost before we knew it.

Just after the lock a field on our port bow had a teenager standing ankle deep in the water, imploring Ian to get his football a further twenty feet out from the shore. On being told that the manoeuvre would be too tricky & that the water was probably too shallow, he then swore profusely, criticising Ian's ample figure & then proceeded to lob stones at him & Star. Cue me to react with vigour, telling this apology for the human race that he was a waste of space (I'll leave you to imagine the actual words) this goaded him into action whereupon he gathered enough stones to supply an army of Goliaths but, pathetically was only able to throw them some twenty feet short of Star. Unfortunately, one of the crowd had the presence of mind to run along the bank & throw with some accuracy a veritable fusillade, hitting Star twice & me once, on the arm. Luckily, he couldn't pursue us any further, just what do you do?

Still, without more incident we made our way downriver, going through East Molesey lock by ourselves as the Lock Keeper had gone home. Spirit came through the lock about thirty minutes after us & proceeded to the moorings immediately below Hampton Court Palace. We were happy at the moorings just shy of the bridge on the starboard bank, the palace dramatically framed by the brickwork of the bridge. Later on all five of us walked the short distance from Star to a Greek restaurant & a good meal. Last day tomorrow!

        Barry inspects the weed hatch at Hampton Court        

Thursday 24 April.

The parting comment after the Greek meal was that, "We're leaving bang on 08:00 so, if you're not ready you'll find an empty mooring when you come past." With that in mind it was particularly satisfying to hurl some abuse at Spirit as we motored past them in no uncertain fashion. Admittedly, the tiller pin was just being inserted but still (heh, heh, heh.) That was to prove our last glimpse of Spirit, she never did catch us up. The Thames had taken on an arcane quality, with the early morning mist reluctant to leave the water's surface. By the time Kingston bridge was reached, the rest of the world had woken up & the spell was broken. 

Gliding down the reach towards Teddington Lock, Ian mentioned the T.V. studios on the port side & I was reminded of The Beatles' triumphant arrival at those very studios by boat way back in 1963. (40 years ago!!! Where has the time gone? etc., etc.) They were MEGA at that time-every programme seemed to feature them, they took over Juke Box Jury, Blackpool Night Out, Sunday Night at the London Palladium -- this was a one-off special from Teddington Studios, the hordes of screaming fans lined the bank of the Thames as their boat came alongside to the tune of "It Won't Be Long" --- magic times. However, I digress. 

Sliding into Teddington Lock, the Lock Keeper had a word with Ian about licenses, what with transit licenses for the River Wey, visitor licenses for the Thames & guest licenses for the Basingstoke Canal, I lost the plot somewhat, it's not hard -- I lose the plot when watching the teletubbies! Suffice it to say that the Lock Keeper invited Ian to have this one on him, as he passed me on the bow to attend to the bottom gates I heard him mutter, "I give up!"

Through the lock & out onto the tideway just before high water. It was noticeable that Star was working just that little bit harder but the next time I glanced at the shore, the telltale tide mark was showing that the level was already 12 inches below, the tide had turned. Eel Pie island whipped past & the glorious reach above Richmond bridge, the Star & Garter Home looking down from its lofty perch atop Richmond Hill, looked somewhat subdued as the mist continued to dominate the overall scene. Soon we were making the turn into Brentford Creek & Star gratefully snuggled into the canal system again like a pensioner donning their favourite comfy slippers. At Thames lock the Lock Keeper inquired as to the whereabouts of Spirit. We told her that she was still upstream somewhere & attempted to contact her on the mobile -- no signal!

                     

                  Thames Lock - Grand Union Canal, Brentford                            Looking back at Brentford Basin

Brentford Docks is undergoing a massive facelift & it will be very impressive once it's complete. Three locks up, we came upon a man in a white outfit kneeling on the lock side just above the top gates. He looked like a policeman gathering forensic evidence but it turned out he was no more sinister than a BW painter touching up the white bits around the lock. It started to rain fitfully, spoiling his efforts somewhat. His main gripe though was that it was a bl**dy long walk across a park to get to this spot carrying a large paint pot! Throughout the rest of the day the umbrella was up & down but the temperature remained decidedly pleasant.

Very familiar territory to both Ian & myself slipped by for the remainder of the day until finally just on the stroke of six o'clock, Star came alongside Hillingdon Narrowboat Association's Boathouse at Coppermill Lock & the order, "Finished with main engines" was given.

Star settled down for a snooze before Harold turned up the next morning to prepare her for the weekend's excursion.

Barry Holland, Volunteer Hillingdon Narrowboats Association steerer and raconteur extraordinaire