Leisurely Sojourn on the Lee and Stort

 

 

Friday 23 September  2005

 

Although I asked Barry to be at South Ruislip Towers by 08:00, he pulled up at 07:20! Never mind! It gave us a good start and we were away to Harefield by 07:50. The boat was loaded by 08:20--unfortunately the starter battery wasn't. It was totally unimpressed by my key turning efforts and necessitated phoning good old Harold to rescue the situation by jumping from his warm bed and bringing some jump leads and distilled water for the thirsty batteries. I had been guilty of neglecting the battery maintenance owing to their awkward positioning. Having topped up the cells it was merely a matter of connecting the positive terminals of the domestic bank of four to the positive terminal of the starter one.

 

The batteries realised they were in the presence of a maintenance God [Harold] and the engine burst into compliant life.  Therefore the trek began ninety minutes after our arrival and we joined 'Jimsonweed' in Coppermill Lock for the trip as far as Cowley by noon where a full English breakfast was eagerly consumed. Underway by 12:45 we turned onto the Paddington Arm at 14:05.       

Northolt saw us quietly drowning in the promised rain but by the time Brunel beckoned us from his canalside tomb at Kensal Green, sunshine was the order of the day!  Shopping was obtained at Ladbroke Grove. We were intrigued to see a narrowboat whose roof consisted entirely of young plants, all for sale, moored by Sainsbury's entrance. Pushing on in very warm sunshine we glided to a stop in Paddington Basin by 18:30---after a dodgy start, a satisfactory first day. 

 

 

Saturday 24 September 2005

 

07:00 said my watch after a dreamless sleep. All the fresh air had worked its magic, obviously. I staggered via the loo to the kettle and convinced Barry it was time to arise. Fishing by 07:20 produced two perch and a roach. The owner of a narrowboat behind us asked me if he could have a jump start as his battery was flat! I said that I would see what I could do, provide that we could get going!

He was happy to wait until we were ready to move and that time arrived at 10:10. Barry was dispatched to prepare the jump leads provided by the other boat, while I started up--success! 

                               

So I turned about and came alongside the ancient Springer, complete with anxious owner. Inside two minutes his engine was running too--With grateful thanks ringing in our ears we pottered off back up the arm to Little Venice and up Blomfield Road to the Maida Hill Tunnel. A slow chug through the environs of London Zoo brought us to Hampstead Road Locks and Camden Market by noon. 

        

We stopped in glorious sunshine for a beer and took in the various sights, fending off numerous bits of banter with the gongoozling hordes.  Eventually at 13:30 we moved on through Islington, Hackney and Old Ford, down the Hertford Union Canal and on to  the River Lee, stopping at the 'Princess of Wales' by 17:15. 

                   

Sunday 25 September 2005

 

Pitter pattering on my bedroom ceiling betrayed the fact that the promised rain had arrived  and gently awoke me at 06:45 after another great kip.  Up at 07:20 to make a morning cuppa, I said to Barry that there'd be no rush this morning as I looked out of the window at a black, misty Lea* Bridge Road.

 

Showered by 08:30 I suddenly noticed an increase in women passers-by--mostly dressed either in pink or sporting pink items of clothing. There were 2,500 of them, walking 43 miles in two days in aid of breast cancer, all past my boat--I was in heaven!

We cast off at 10:10 and Barry decided to film the line of women snaking back as far as the eye could see, and all of them waving and smiling at us. Our hands got sore from waving back!

                            

At Ponder's End Lock Barry committed the cardinal sin of leaving the windlass behind and had to pay the penalty of a walk back to retrieve same whilst I tied up with difficulty in a brisk breeze. Windlass duly retrieved, the trek north resumed. By 14:10 we had actually got into a part of the system that Barry hadn't been to before, i.e. north of Rammey Marsh and out from the circumference of the M25.The weather was now glorious sunshine with temperatures in the 20's. Gongoozlers abounded throughout the Lea Valley Water Park and who could blame them--it was probably summer's last thrall.

 

Nicholson's guide ably demonstrated its inaccuracies by claiming there was a water point at Carthagena Lock--no there isn't and never has been according to a boater going downstream! Eventually we ascended Dobb's Weir Lock and attempted to moor up but were defeated by shallow sides. We pottered on around a sharp right-hand bend and moored outside the 'Fish and Eels' at 18:00, never mind point to point, we were going pub to pub!

 

*both Lea and Lee are acceptable.

 

 

Monday 26 September 2005

 

Another glorious kip brought us to 07:20 and a reasonably bright day. I started to fish whilst listening to Nick Ferrari on LBC but there was little, if no reward, in the piscine stakes. After showering we untied and moved on upriver into a bright , breezy day.

The water point at Feilde's Weir Lock was new to me and consequently didn't appear in Nicholson's---that made up for the the one at Carthagena Lock that didn't exist! We filled the tank until the characteristic 'bongs' that signalled to the waiting world that the tank was, like Peter Finch in the film, Network,  'Not gonna take it anymore!'

                 

Barry gazed upon the secret, hidden entrance to the River Stort once we were through the lock--but he'll have to wait a few more days before 'Caie Two' gets her bum wet in the Stort's waters.

The Lee Valley Park looked enchanting as we glided inexorably towards Hertford and just above Hardmead Lock, Barry suggested that some piscine fun might have better results than earlier in the day. This proved to be correct as four crayfish ended up in the pot. Barry photographed the first two and christened them 'The Cray Twins!'  Perch, roach, dace and chub all reported for duty and reassignment to the waters behind me. Through all this activity, Barry's bacon butties were most welcome.

Two and a half pleasant hours finished at 16:00 when we slowly made our way into Ware and at the visitor's moorings on the far side of town, took full advantage of the proximity of the library to catch up on our E-mails. 

       

Later, after a stroll around this pleasant little place, we succumbed to the lure of fish and chips and brought them back to the boat to devour by 18:00.  After that I couldn't be bothered to move on, so it was 'Corrie' and later a couple of pints of Hoegaarden beer in a very pleasant pub called the 'Tap Room.'

Hertford awaits tomorrow! 

 

 

Tuesday 27 September 2005 

 

A bad night's sleep owing to voices in the car park above us--I'm sure the people concerned didn't even know they'd woken me up but it was disconcerting to say the least. Had I issued a plea for quiet, who knows what might have ensued?

We got underway at 10:30 after several more swan-feeding episodes by various members of the public.  Slowly pottering in warm sunshine but a chilly breeze when it blew, Hertford was reached by 13:00, after watering up just outside town. The water was far more weedy than on my last visit several years ago and consequently the fishing wasn't up to much because it was hard to find any depth.  We entered the town, found the library and later had a great curry for half price at the aptly named 'Hot House' Indian restaurant, followed by a couple of pints of Red Fox in the 'White Horse' well done Debbie Figueiredo for the pub recommendation!

 Back to the excellent very quiet moorings alongside the allotments by 22:35 and so to bed as Mr. Pepys might say. 

 

 

Wednesday 28 September 2005

 

06:45 was too early for getting up but when a toiletry visit is called for one has to and then back to bed before the warmth goes!  An abortive attempt to tune to LBC behind me I got up to make tea at 08:15. The day was clear, bright and cold and fishing was crap. Once the sun came over the roof of the flats opposite then everything warmed up very quickly. Having abluted and breakfasted we forayed into town to visit the now-open grandfather clock shop and antique bookstall next door. I drew out some money from Barclays and bought some milk from Tesco's, finally leaving the moorings at 12:35.

                 

A steady run down to Hardmead Lock where a short session of fishing ensued which produced the biggest crayfish so far. Barry's cooking pot was brought into service once again! Pushing on, we entered the Stort at 16:40 just as the temperature dropped.  In the space of less than an hour I went from t-shirt to jumper to lined anorak as the mercury shrunk and the cold breeze asserted itself. Lower and Brick Locks fell behind as we made our shivering way to just below Roydon Lock where a halt to the proceedings was called, thankfully out of the wind.

                            

 Fishing produced several fine, colourful perch--the best spot so far. Later a fine meal in the 'New Inn' topped off a good day all round. 

 

 

Thursday 29 September 2005

 

Bright sunshine flooded through my bedroom window at 07:20 when I awoke. Unfortunately the boat was in the shadow of the trees and the constant breeze ringing the wind chimes of the lockkeeper's cottage [arrghh!!] meant that although one was gazing at a scene redolent of Autumnal colour, the epitome of a fine September day, the temperature left a lot to be desired! 

  

 

The fine fishing of last night had all but dissipated and was a factor in persuading me to move on poste haste. Roydon,Hunsdon Mill, Parndon and Burnt Mill Locks were negotiated in bright, cold conditions. After filling the water tank at Burnt Mill I mopped down the boat's roof and mused it was something I'd planned on doing since finding the mop floating in Enfield Lock!  Just through Harlow New Town the river narrowed as we glided through the trees and the wind dropped accordingly.  The still, warm conditions convinced me to drown maggots for an hour or so. Barry leapt Tarzan-like from the overhanging branches of a tree to the bank to tie a bow and stern line, then drowsily sunbathed in the nearby field. Moving on at 14:30 in milder weather we made Sawbridgeworth Lock by 17:15, above which I enjoyed the best fishing of the trip so far, plenty of reasonable perch falling to the lure of the single maggot and one unfortunate perch falling to an opportunist pike that flashed all too briefly, taking captured fish, hook, line and weights!  Later, into town for an excellent meal at the 'Old Bell.'

 

 

Friday 30 September 2005

 

The combination of 'Elizabeth 1' and Drambuie to help down some Coca Cola ensured we had a dreamless sleep until 08:20.  Inexplicably, the fishing was non-existent this morning and after a leisurely ablute we pottered on towards Bishop's Stortford at 10:15, shallow water meaning progress was slow but the air temperature was balmy!    So it was a pleasant sojourn to our goal by 13:15. The first task was to find the maggot shop and return them to the boat's fridge, the second was to find the library and book some e-mail time. The third was to find the 'Half Moon' pub! Barry was e-mailing virtually immediately but my slot was thirty minutes hence so I sought out the pub where I indulged in a swift pint of 'Hobgoblin' before returning to the library for my session and to take Barry onto the pub afterwards.

Around 16:30 we had a meal and returned to the boat to head south for a mooring out in the wilds, well Spellbrook Lock anyway. The weather continued to be very mild as we moored in total darkness just in time for 'Corrie!'

 

 

Saturday 1 October 2005 

 

Wind and rain during the night had largely cleared by 08:20 when I arose to make the cup that cheers. Reception on the radio was non-existent so I had to leave Brian Matthew to his own devices as he worked his way through 'Sounds of the Sixties.'

                 

We moved on downstream at 10:15 as far as Sawbridgeworth Lock where I practised piscenery whilst Barry forayed into town to get a paper and the all important TV listings for the coming week, and hopefully to get a session on the computer in the library for e-mailing. It was success for the first task and failure for the second, no computer being available before the library closed.  My fishing was as good as the last time here, around twenty or so--a mixed bag of perch, roach, bream, gudgeon and almost another greedy jack-pike that grabbed a roach I was reeling in! By 15:30 it was time to get going and we were rained on for several minutes on several occasions for the next hour or so. During one lull in the precipitation I managed to fish a lozenge-shaped fender out of the water. This makes two fenders found, the other day Barry spotted a pipe-fender which I duly rescued. It had sustained some damage but by judicious use of the Stanley knife it was put to work on the port side of the boat. By 18:00 with a drop in temperature we moored outside  'The Moorhen' above Burnt Mill Lock.  Steak and ale pie went down very well with the IPA bitter then back to the boat for another showing of that wonderful film 'Shawshank Redemption' just as powerful as the first time I saw it--and so to bed. 

 

                                

 

Sunday 2 October 2005

 

Rising at 08:10 I was grateful to see bright sunshine once again. While the kettle was boiling I used the loo just across the towpath and was impressed with its cleanliness. Top marks British Waterways! There was also a water point, shower, laundry and sanitary station. The only thing missing was a rubbish disposal point--what did we need? You've guessed it.

I walked to Burnt Mills Lock in order to cross the river and photo the boat in situ. On the way back I spoke to the owner of 'Vital Spark' and then the volunteers of the 'Stort Challenger'  canal boat project.

                 

We moved on at 11:50 for a cruise down to Lower Lock and some fishing which came in peaks and troughs. Nothing for ages then a fish on every cast--all different species it seemed.   

                

Eventually back on the Lee we chatted to Chris and Tony, a couple who are thinking of having a canal boat holiday, before a slow ride to the 'Fish and Eels' for a night time mooring and a tasty cooked meal after several more perch and one crayfish had succumbed to the lure of the maggot.  Back to the boat in time for news at 23:00 followed by the all-important weather forecast.

 

 

 Monday 3 October 2005 

 

Nick Ferrari had been talking for over an hour at 08:10 when I infused the tannin and gazed upon the weir opposite the 'Fish and Eels'   As Nick had finished his show at 10:00 and the ablutions and disappointing fishing were done, we turned the boat towards Hertford once more and motored sedately to Ware visitor moorings. 

                                        

I had finally conceded to the weather and donned long trousers for the first time since March, so it was no surprise to be walking to Tesco's in blazing hot sunshine!  I had had a session on the computer in the library and had left Barry e-mailing for England whilst I bought some supplies at Mr Cohen's emporium. Back at the boat I decided that  any fishing was pointless, owing to the local swan population attempting to form a solid white carpet across the river's surface.  When I threw in the remains of a loaf it was like being caught in a white tsunami. The rocking of the boat as the swans fought for the bread did nothing to dispel the sensation!

                 

Barry returned to the boat and the final journey back to Harefield started at 14:30. Hardmead Lock was the scene of the capture of the Monster of the Deep--a crayfish that dwarfed all those that had gone before. A late brunch was followed by a resumption of the journey in company with 'Moewe' a fifteen foot cruiser on its way to Springfield Marina. The clock read 16:10 and by the time that it had advanced to 19:10 we were tying up for the night at Aqueduct Lock.

                                        

 

Tuesday 4 October 2005

 

07:50 was the time when the blinds were lifted and the day began. Very mild and still, I thought the fishing would be superb, but a solitary perch was the result of two hours'  concentration. It was the only bite of the session! Barry set the lock and we glided away southwards.  Above Cheshunt Lock, it looked so inviting that I decided to drown maggots there for a few minutes but there was one bite less than at Aqueduct Lock! 

                                    

Pushing on to Waltham Town Lock, a visit was made to the 'Old English Gentleman' sadly soon to be pulled down in the name of 'progress.'  Barry walked to Waltham Abbey and the library whilst I drowned maggots, sweet corn and cheese with no result whatsoever. 16:00 came and on we went through Pickett's, Ponder's End, Stonebridge and Tottenham Locks after a meeting with an industrial strength plastic bag that necessitated a trip down the weedhatch for the first time this holiday.

 

Just after Tottenham Lock we were amazed to see a crowd of Hasidic Jews all swaying and praying on the towpath. Even the wailing wall in Jerusalem wasn't as heavily populated as this-- there had to be at least 300 in the crowd but as we gazed in wonder at this be-homberged spectacle it became obvious that many, many more were in evidence over the next mile or so. They all gathered under the lamp posts in order to read their religious tracts in the fast-fading light. Surreal wasn't the word for it--it's hard to put a figure on the size of the crowds, as Barry pointed out, in some places twenty deep, but I think over 1000 isn't unreasonable as a guess. Besides the hombergs there were some more important threepenny-bit shaped hats and Russian Cossack influenced models too!  I felt we should acknowledge them in some way but they were too bound up in their incantations to notice us. One threepenny-bitted man waved however and I wished him a Happy New Year to which he replied 'Thank you very much.'   The location I can only put down to an English version of the River Jordan! Either that or, as Barry said, 'They must all love narrowboats!'  A humbling experience.

Back in the real world we tied to the railings outside the 'Princess of Wales' by 19:15 and gladly made our way in side to get outside some battered cod cooked in a beer sauce--lovely! 

                                     

 

Wednesday 5 October 2005 

 

A grey, dull start to the day at 07:30 but the temperature is still warm for the time of year. We have certainly been lucky for the whole trip with regards to the weather. Nick Ferrari was just about listenable but with lots of hiss. The fishing was also crap--I don't think I've ever had a bite in the three times we've moored there--shame.

Before we left, along the towpath came a lone Hasidic Jew. I asked him what was the reason for all his fellow men and women praying by the water's side last night? Apparently it is a ceremony to bless the fish, they represent one of the first life forms on earth and with the beginning of the Jewish New Year they are blessed with a good life for the next twelve months! 

 

Ever so slowly at 10:45 we pottered off towards Limehouse in ever increasing warmth. at Old Ford Lock I noticed a woman mowing a sizeable lawn outside the former home of Breakfast TV but inside a formidable fence of razor-wire and scaffolding. She came over to the gate and revealed that it was her home. She and her husband had bought it after the arson attack of a couple of years ago.  

 

We chatted for a while and filled the water tank before leaving the lock for our journey amongst the backwaters leading down through Bow, alongside the Blackwall Tunnel approach, past Three Mills and into the Limehouse Cut which has improved beyond measure since my last trip along it.  New buildings have appeared on either bank, lighting up what was a dark, dingey ditch. 

 

at the entrance into the basin we fought our way through dense duckweed that almost brought the boat to a halt. 13:30 was showing on the clockface of St.Anne's as we tied up for the last time before the tidal Thames. Fishing started in earnest and was instantly the best of the trip. Sizeable bream, roach and rudd all came quickly and regularly to my eager hands for the next five hours or so--great!

After 'Corrie' and 'The Bill' we repaired to Cafe Rajistan on Commercial Road for an excellent curry. Back to the boat by 23:45, everyone having booked in for tomorrow. 

 

Thursday 6 October 2005 

 

The excitement factor made it hard to sleep, as did the curry factor! I got up in pitch darkness to visit the loo, returning gratefully to bed until 06:39 when I gave up and listened to my personal radio until 07:20 when tea making took place. I started on the fishing with a vengeance but it didn't compare with yesterday afternoon at all. Around 09:00 a large boat came off the Thames  and the resultant filling of Thames Lock sucked copious amounts of duckweed out into the basin from the Limehouse Cut that eventually covered the water and made fishing nigh on impossible. Around noon Chloe from H.N.A. put in an appearance still convinced that our departure time onto the tideway was 13:00. It gave her time to wander around the basin, taking in all the sights and reading the history of the place  on the informative story boards that abound around the perimeter. My brother Phil was next to arrive at 12:40, with my daughter Tammy and her husband Matt last to appear at 13:35.

             

 

With the whole crew there, we moved out onto the Thames bang on time at 14:00, Chloe was thrilled to steer under Tower Bridge, and we took the requisite two and a half hours to make Brentford. 

            

 Sam,  the tidal lockkeeper, was pleased to hear that our plan was to keep on until 'The Fox' at the foot of the Hanwell flight because the visitor moorings are currently closed for refurbishment.  By 18:00 we had cleared the four locks that took us from the tideway to the flight that climbs the hill behind Ealing Hospital with the unnavigable River Brent wandering off to our right. Barry was dropped off to make his way across some parkland to Boston Manor tube station and thence to a concert at the Royal Albert Hall.  The rest of us got down to some serious drinking and joined in the quiz at 20:30, coming last but winning a lottery ticket in the process.  Barry returned at 22:45 having been cultured up. Our temporary crew melted away into the dark leaving Barry and me to return to the boat by 23:10, knackered.  

 

 

Friday  7 October 2005 

 

In Stygian blackness the phone alarm rooster awoke me from my slumbers at the unearthly hour of 06:00. I gratefully pressed the snooze button and stole another ten minutes conversation with Morpheus. However, I knew the monster that was the Hanwell Flight awaited merely yards ahead and we needed a decent start to the day as we still had a long way to go. Two hours later saw us clear the Norwood Top Lock and an hour or so's cruising to Cowley and the steady climb to Coppermill began in earnest.

                                                      

 I dived inside to ablute whilst Barry pointed the tiller northwards. When I finished in the shower then Barry retired inside to prepare our last fry-up--delicious. We ate on the move, gathered some free-range eggs from Jane at Black Jack's Cottage and glided to a stop outside H.N.A. by 14:20. 

 

 The sojourn was sated.  

                                                                 

 

                                                                                   

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