Two Chaps

Moved off from Coppermill at 09:15 in conjunction with "Oak"--a Wyvern Shipping Company boat with Dan, wife Nell Marie, Lynette, Buddy, Ria and 8-year-old Simone, aboard. They stayed with us until 17:30 at King's Langley. Earlier on at Hunton Bridge we all stopped for a pint. "The King's Head" was shut, "due to open tonight", having been converted to a "pizzeria" so it was to "The Dog and Partridge" that we took our custom, no real ales, the sort of place that you'd avoid if at all possible.

In King's Langley, after some excellent fishing, perch, roach, gudgeon and some of Barry's favourite crayfish, we struggled through Corry with a fuzzy picture then walked over the bridge into town for a fish supper, noting the close proximity of the library for tomorrow. Wonderful sunshine all day--let's hope it's the pattern for the immediate future!

07:00 saw me up and making tea. A glorious kip with the open hatch making for a blissfully cool bed. The sun was already up and making the day hot. We arrived at the library at 08:50 and were admitted on the stroke of 09:00. I got down to dealing with some 68 E-mails but unfortunately for Barry, his terminal was already booked for an hour so he read the paper and then, while he EE'd I returned to the boat for maggot-drowning with poor results but chewed the fat with Lindsay, opposite the boat, whose house is on the site of an old mill. She and her husband bought the house off of drawings 22 years ago! Reluctant to leave such a great scenic spot, we pushed on at 11:50 and steadily made our way north, stopping for a brief respite at Boxmoor Top Lock. I'd hoped for some peaceful fishing whilst Barry listened to a tape he'd recorded a few days ago. Boat traffic was fairly quiet but two girls who had managed to arrange to get their boat towed down to Fishery Lock, needed our help in winding their broken-down craft before peace finally reigned.

Later, a young lady was thrilled to operate Winkwell Swing Bridge for us, as were two more young ladies, winding paddles and pushing beams at the lock above Winkwell. We met Debbie and Simon at "The Rising Sun" in Berko, no surprise there! The environs were awash with kids and couples drinking and lounging on the lock gates and beams. It was necessary to clear the crowds before lock operations could commence.

Finally, we made Berko Park by 20:12 and tied above lock 53 with burnt arms and tired limbs.

I fished while Barry forayed, he being only marginally more successful than me inasmuch as he got some milk, but didn't manage to swap a book he'd bought on an earlier trip to Berko, whereas I didn't catch any fish. On his return we puttered over to the water point and topped up--we'd both showered and the tank was well down. By 11:45 we started in earnest through Northchurch, Dudswell and Cowroast.

½ way along the tranquil summit level we stopped for a sandwich and some fishing. The sun was incredibly hot and bright and my eyes suffered due to me not wearing my sunglasses. 15:30 saw us on the move again--the air was now very humid and during the descent of the Marsworth Flight, the sky darkened to such an extent that I thought we would get drenched. However, the clouds passed over and sunglasses were needed to finish for the day between locks 37 and 38 at 18:45. An idyllic spot, total silence apart from the occasional sheep bleating, so rare to find somewhere like that these days. Plenty of fish rises but yet to be translated into fish captures!

10:00 arrived and we left in cloudy, mild conditions that saw me concede to a jacket by midday as the wind proved chilly. By 14:00 we were outside "The Grove" and tied up for a lunchtime meal. Dave Lee Travis was seated at the next table and I spotted him. Barry could only manage Tony Francis yesterday-that means it's his turn again tomorrow--ha!

At Leighton Buzzard we found the library and caught up with our E-mails, then Tesco knew our custom as I bought their excellent draught bitter--4 cans for £1:40--bargain! Pulled up at 18:35 outside "The Globe" at Linslade, fished for a couple of hours and listened to "War of the worlds" the telly signal being non-existent, no Corry, merciful God, what am I to do?

Great kip although I bellowed out in the night when having a nightmare, Barry is unfazed by this--he's used to it! I took a few shots of the boat in situ and we chugged off at 09:40. The temperature rose again to sauna heat. We topped up the water tank after Soulbury 3 Locks. I showed Tina, the "3 Locks" pub landlady, round the boat, she's thinking of getting one. at Fenny Stratford we helped a boat load of girls through the lock and eventually saw them much later in the day. Coincidentally, they were steering 'Oak' the same boat that accompanied us from Coppermill to King's Langley! A long, hot run through Stoke Hammond, Bletchley, Waughton on the Green, Great and Little Woolstone, Great Linford, New Bradwell and Wolverton, stopping at the Great Ouse Aqueduct to record the boat crossing same,

before stopping for the night at "The Barley Mow" close to the very ornate Solomon's Bridge 65.

A most welcome roast beef meal went down a treat--along with a pint of "Tiger."

With a relatively early night last night it was no surprise to be up with the lark--well 06:50 anyway! Early fishing produced two superb bream of about 2 pounds and 1 pound on cheese.

We had been told of a tackle shop in Cosgrove Holiday Park, an upmarket caravan site with 12 lakes! We walked under the canal through a curious pedestrian tunnel, posting my friend Andrea's birthday card on the way in one of those tiny post boxes that are attached to telegraph poles in country districts. On reaching the tackle shop, there were no maggots to be had owing to the wonderful weather last weekend when the world and his mate had been fishing, all maggots were sold! Pressing on we cruised the stretch through Yardley Gobion and Grafton Regis and ascended the Stoke Bruerne Locks, with a class of primary school children watching fascinated as we came up in the last lock near the museum. Next came Blisworth Tunnel, 40 minutes of Stygian gloom save the two boats that "passed in the night."

On the long stretch after Blisworth, Barry T. took the helm whilst I washed the roof with a bleach mixture in order to lift the dark-green algae that had formed over the winter months--it came up a treat! Suddenly, a strange thing, moored opposite a boat called Enigma was a boat called Enigma----what an enigma!

Barry warned me of the occasional low bridge as I was swabbing like an extra from H.M.S. Pinafore [we sail the can-al green!] The hottest day so far caused us to call a halt to proceedings at Brockhall Park--mere spitting distance from the Buckby Locks. Unfortunately no T.V. picture, fishing crap and noise from the M1, otherwise perfect!

Although the M1 and railway are fighting to get through the Watford Gap along with their elder brother, the canal, they didn't prevent sleep noisewise overnight. Unlike later from Whilton to top lock at Long Buckby, where sometimes I had to shout to Chris and Brian, the couple sharing the lock flight with us, in order to make myself heard over the incessant traffic noise from Motorway One. A wonderful glide past Norton Junction was just the antidote to the previous hectic activity of the locks. The sun made itself known to us ever more strongly as the day progressed and my silk from my fire-brigade days, worn in the manner of a judge before pronouncing a death sentence, hat and sunglasses were more vital than ever, as were Barry's 2 hats--a baseball cap to shield his nose and a sun hat to protect his ear-tops and head!

The Braunston Tunnel took 24 minutes to get through and we emerged at 14:05 and quickly knocked off the ½ dozen locks to Braunston where Barry forayed up to the village for milk and bread and I fished in absolute bakerama.

Onto the Oxford Canal by 16:45, we stopped at Napton on the Hill and ate at the Napton Bridge Inn. Back at the boat afterwards, I finally tackled the first of the front doors that need sanding and re-varnishing--hot work in the gloaming!

A very peaceful night and an early awakening at 06:25. Tea was made by 06:45 and we were underway by 08:20. The tortuous turns of the Oxford Canal are also very shallow so it's slow progress, no more slow than the Napton Flight where we had to take up the fenders so as not to get jammed in the locks. 13:30 saw us take an hour out. I fished and Barry listened to tapes as we had found a cool, shady part of the towpath and had taken full advantage 'coz the sun was as strong as ever and it gets wearing!

We filled the water tank at Fenny Compton and saw the first people for over three hours! It sure is a lonely, but lovely stretch around Wormleighton! The first lift-bridge we've come across so far was in the raised position--there are more to come I'm sure, if my memory serves me well. Finally, after negotiating the Claydon Flight and 3 more locks, we made Cropredy by 19:10 and dined in the splendid "Red Lion" then strolled through the village, returning to the boat via the towpath by nine and settled down to watch telly.

Whilst fishing this morning two carp were busy mating opposite me under a weeping willow. I caught a small common carp just as this was happening. This was my first success on sweetcorn but also the last one today! I moseyed down to the shop on the bridge and bought a paper for the weeks' T.V. programmes, although, with the success rate we've been having with reception, I don't think it'll be overused!

at 09:15 we took advantage of an uphill boat to enter the lock and pass downhill to start the day's travels. We arrived at Banbury moorings at about 11:30 and found out where the library and maggot shop were. I got the maggots and we both got a computer session at the library, where we caught up on our E-mails. I bought a rabbit, "Banbury" for Violet--it's five times bigger than her!

Back at the boat, as England stepped onto the pitch in Germany, so the shopping centre seemed to empty--I wonder why? Eventually, we set off again at 15:20 and, some 6 hours later, after we'd been lucky enough to watch a barn owl quartering the field near Somerton [probably looking for a barn!] got to Lower Heyford. "The Bell" provided us with the best meal of the holiday so far . Back to the boat it was too dark to fish so I read the paper and wrote the log before teddies and dum-dums!

A hot, sticky night finished when I awoke at 08:10 and fished while tea drinking. A boat came upstream and I ran to operate the lift-bridge, they thanked me as they passed through. I pulled the boat forward about 50 yards as our overnight neighbours had vacated their spot, and resumed piscatorial playtime. Soon though, the traffic became too much and we upped sticks and moved on until 11:05 when we found a shady nook. I fished while Barry washed through a couple of shirts. The sea-search magnet came into its own at this spot as I managed to flip the windlass into the water as I leapt athletically ashore with the centre line. Luckily, Barry had seen just where it sank and only two passes were required to rescue the windlass from its watery grave.

Later, we were passing by Oxfordshire Narrowboats, where Robin and I hired from in 1993. I was astonished when a full-length narrowboat backed off from its nose-on moorings and blocked my way with less than 30 feet between us. The moron on the tiller then enquired of Barry at the bow, "Is he going to back off?"

My mental reply was unprintable but my actual one was "If you move your boat back to where it started, I can get out of your way and give you all the room in the world!" He did and I did! Later I found out from David and Angela, the site owners, that this guy was moving his freshly-bought boat for the very first time. I'm glad I shan't be around as he learns his craft! We finished tonight at "The Jolly Boatman" hard by Sparrowgap Bridge, south of Thrupp. Excellent roast lamb dinner and IPA bitter. Amazingly, a brilliant TV picture too--and reasonable fishing----Oxford and the Thames tomorrow.

Sarah Kennedy was spouting as we supped our early morning teaat 07:00. I fished for a time before abluting and was on the point of starting up around 08:45 when I decided that, as the weather was good now, the early rain having ceased and it was back to sunny and warm conditions, it was a perfect time to sand the remaining front door of the boat. Sweating profusely, the deed was done and after a welcome lager shandy, we finally left the environs of "The Jolly Boatman" by noon.

A steady chug through the last vestiges of the Southern Oxford Canal brought us to Duke's Cut by 14:00

and King's Lock on the Thames by 14:20. at Godstow Lock Barry decamped over to "The Trout Inn" to check if food was still being served--it was, thankfully and we had a great meal of liver and bacon for me, whilst Barry settled for hake, chips and peas.

We were still talking about this vision we'd seen on an upstream boat just before mooring. A statuesque Nancy dell'Olio lookalike in a mini bikini-top and thong--she might as well have been naked! Suddenly, as we talked about this, Barry's face broke into a big grin at something, or someone, behind me. A cool blonde {think Gwyneth Paltrow} with legs that went on forever, dressed in a skimpy black top, matching shorts, along with stiletto open sandals brought all conversations at every table to an abrupt halt. The women all jealous, the men all incredulous!

Up at 08:10, a sticky humid night and now cloudy and warm. Having already showered, I set us on our way while Barry joined the ablute club. We reached Abingdon and filled the water tank just above the lock while chatting to some upstream boaters at 10:30. We found the library by about 11:00. Having E-mailed we returned to the boat along with milk, cheese and corn flakes, along with some open-wrapped chips to stave off the munchies. Moored a couple of spaces down were Eric and Erica on their wide-boat, "Star of Destiny" a lovely floating home. We talked through the advantages/disadvantages of wide as opposed to narrow boats and also laptops and internet connections.

Eventually, 14:05 was being beamed atomically from Rugby as we loosed the bounds of earth and glided eastwards towards London. The heatwave hit a hiatus as a heavy shower caused me to erect the umbrella and Barry to close the front doors and batten down the hatches. Civilisedly though, a halt was called to the precipitation as we negotiated Culham Lock.

08:40! The latest we've slept in yet. Fishing was pretty poor, so after ablutions and cornflakes it was time to move on through Wallingford, Mongewell,North and South Stoke, Streatley, Goring and Whitchurch to arrive at Pangbourne Meadows by 13:40 where, even at this hour, mooring spaces were thin on the ground. Walking into Pangbourne to the Pangbourne Tandoori, we were told that they were closing in 30 minutes so curry plans were abandoned until we passed "Lina" I noticed that there were tables within--I had thought it was only a takeaway. My chicken shashlick was ginormous and Barry's lamb pasanda certainly was large too. The food was exceptional, best curry for ages, as Arnie says, I'll be back!

Resuming our journey south by 15:45 we noticed several llamas in a field opposite the meadows--they must belong to a llama farmer! The clouds gathered but it remained very warm and the rain held off. Mapledurham and Caversham Locks were ticked off the "to-do" list and we finished for the day above Sonning Lock. No fishing to speak of, no T.V. reception so we did what any man would do--repair to the pub--in this case "The Bull" hard by Sonning Church where a couple of pints of "Butser" went down very well indeed. Back to the boat, we listened to the Abba CD I got from an Oxfam shop in Pangbourne for £5, 19 tracks + 18 tracks on an additional DVD, bargain!

07:30 rise and some more unsuccessful fishing, we entered Sonning Lock at 09:00, noting that the moorings below were all chargeable! The temperature was warm but the wind was from the east and cool, enough to convince Barry to don a jacket anyway. Being more macho, I braved it out in shorts and T-shirt! A steady run brought us to Henley moorings by 10:55.

I set to and varnished the front doors whilst Barry forayed librarywards into town. Barely 30 minutes later, I was finished and left the boat to to seek out the library myself. E-mailed up, we wandered through the town and stopped at a Chinese restaurant to enjoy a buffet lunch at £5.99 a head, all you can eat! I tried my best, but sadly didn't do as well as Homer Simpson, and get thrown out for 'eating' into the profits!

Back on board by 14:40, I set the target for a long run to Windsor--it meant 6 hours at least and indeed after passing through Hambleden Lock, and temporarily mooring at "The Flower Pot" in an unsuccessful attempt to get some eggs [the pub was closed] then through Hurley, Temple, Marlow,

Cookham [where we heard England finally qualify for the second round of the World Cup by scoring in the last ten minutes] Boulter's, Bray and Boveney, the last three operated by yours truly, it was 21:40 when we tied to the wall above Windsor Bridge. [Is that the longest sentence in the world or what?]

Tried to tune into Radio 2 at 07:30 but Radio Berkshire was on every channel! Set to fishing with a vengeance knowing the reputation of the spot and my personal knowledge but only a couple of perch fell to the maggot. Barry towned it for supplies and I varnished the front doors for England, all the time listening to Enya, Stars on 45 and Sheila's 'mixture' CD. Then, as the varnish dried, I tried fishing again with cheese. Immediately I had a lift bite and a dive, I struck into a monster fish that first headed for the deep, then straight out across the river for over 50 yards. Mindful of my light tackle I tried to play it carefully, but to no avail, I got smashed up and lost hook, line and sinker! With palpitations I changed line strength,hook size, new float and weight and proceeded to catch sod all for the rest of the day!

We left Windsor at 12:45 and then below Old Windsor Lock I backed in to what I thought was a small creek, it was in the shade and I proceeded to fish until a small cruiser hit me gently up the backside, the skipper telling me I was in the entrance to a small marina. We moved onto the main river at "The Bells of Ouzely" but still no luck and finally into the weir stream below Bell Weir Lock--same result. at 18:10 we tied outside "The Swan" at Staines, had a great meal, several drinks and long chats with all and sundry until 23:30.

After Penton Hook we worked through Chertsey where we topped up the water. at Pharoah's Island we paid a courtesy visit to Mike and Pam Bryant [Mike is a fellow Honorary Steward at Wimbledon] in their splendid house on the point. After a beer we pushed on to the moorings at Shepperton. They were packed despite it being only 14:30, so I didn't swim or fish but just chilled for 30 minutes or so before resuming the trek to Teddington. Sunbury and East Molesey Locks were packed and in the final run to Teddington the boats only slowly thinned out as Kingston came into view and receded far behind. Luckily at the moorings there was a space right by the footbridge that led to "The Anglers" and "Tide End Cottage" next door.

Tied up by 18:10, I walked to the lock to confirm the tide time for tomorrow, 08:34. After some fishing and a fry-up we watched 'Millionaire' and then repaired to the pub and met Steve Coloney for a couple of drinks. He came back to the boat briefly, in order to see where we were moored and have the 2 minute guided tour--London tomorrow!

When the alarm went offat 06:00 I was already awake and had been for sometime. I got up immediately and made tea. Fishing produced nothing so ablutions were carried out. Then one last effort produced a superb bream of about 2½ pounds. Barry duly captured it on camera and all too soon there were only 20 minutes to the 'off.' Steve Coloney appeared on cue, accompanied by Heamiyet Eren, a very old friend of his. She was like an older version of Agnetha from Abba, a real eye-catcher that caused men to second-glance her, a very pleasant addition to the crew.

We moved into the lock and Marvin, the lockkeeper, packed us all in like sardines. Then, by 0845 we were released from the traps and we sprung forward, the boats eager to chew up the 17 miles or so to Limehouse.

The weather got hotter and hotter as we penetrated the capital city until Tower Bridge, when high cloud filled the sky but the temperature remained constant. I phoned ahead to the Limehouse Lockkeeper who took my details and asked us to moor on the floating pontoon outside the lock as two cruisers were currently coming down into the river.

During our visit I ascended the long ladder to the marina and found Tammy, Matt and Violet. As we entered the lock then Phil and Di arrived too.

We all decamped to the pub for an indifferent pint of lager and and barbeque-burgers as we were starving, the fresh conditions making for large appetites. After eats we returned to the boat and Steve and Heamiyet took their leave. The rest of us then went on a 2 hour 50 minute cruise around the Hertford Union, River Lee and Limehouse Cut, returning to the basin by 18:20. Phil and Di set off for home and, after coffee, Tammy, Matt and Violet did so too. I watched Corry and Heartbeat before Barry and I tackled the first four locks on the Regent's Canal for the second time today. Finally we slipped into a mooring space at Old Ford at 23:08 where, amazingly, a boat invited us to take their space as they were just leaving! A perfect end to a perfect--if somewhat long and busy day.

Unsurprisingly, we both slept like proverbial tops and it was 08:45 before I ceased my conversation with Morpheus. Nick Ferrari came through on the radio loud and clear for the first time this holiday. Fishing produced nothing at all but I chewed the fat with Olivia on "Phoebe" in very mild conditions with the sun threatening to break through anytime. We moved on at 10:30 up to Haggerston where we tied up and began a trek round three libraries. The first was now flats, the second a technology centre and the third required photographic I.D. Consequently I didn't get on the internet, unlike Barry who happened to be carrying his driving licence. Returning to the boat in disgust I tried fishing in really gusty conditions until Barry's return at 16:00.

City road basin was our next port-of-call before ascending City Road Lock and mooring just shy of Islington Tunnel.

For the first time I can remember, there was space to do so--in a lovely spot out of the wind. I fished but was up against a much more skilled opponent--a cormorant as big as a bloody albatross! I did manage 4 small perch though. Corry watched, we repaired to "Island Queen" for a couple of pints of "Leffe" in an interesting pub that's worth a re-visit soon!

A sunny 07:45 greeted me as I opened my eyes and got up for an infusion of the tannin. Fishing drew a total blank and showers took place whilst Nick Ferrari spouted. Bang on 10:00 we pushed the boat away from the towpath, bang on 10:03 we glided back in at the tunnel entrance to allow the downstream boat to pass us! 10:15 saw us in the tunnel with Linda, a cyclist who had stopped at our boat to enquire where the tunnel went to?

Passing Battlebridge Basin, we noted the amount of building work taking place in its environs--it'll certainly look different next time we are there.

Watered up at St.Pancras Lock, we tackled the last three locks to the Hampstead Road level by 12:30.

Rosemary and Ken Trimmer had texted that they would be at Paddington Basin at 13:00 so time was of the essence.

13:15 saw us turn into Browning's Pool and I noticed a woman in pink thumbing a lift at the beginning of the connecting arm to the basin--of course it was Rosemary. Some hasty reversing enabled her and Ken to board for a mini-cruise into the basin and our usual mooring. Tea and buns were consumed and Ken then had to return to work.

In a pub, I walked out when the barmaid asked for £5 for a pint of 'Leffe' and settled for a £3 pint of 'Grolsch' in the next one instead! Bloody West One prices--what a rip-off! Later Barry and I wandered the streets in a vain attempt to find the Chinese restaurant he'd seen 'down a side-turning' earlier! We settled for a Malaysian one instead and ate each other's meals as once before on a previous trip! Back at the boat, we watched England scrape a draw with Sweden as the rain began beating lightly on the roof.

Despite turning over for more sleep it was still only 06:45 when I got up. I began fishing after making a pot of tea and, on maggot got no response. The wind continued to blow strongly, making bites difficult to detect. Suddenly, I got a bite and a sizeable roach swung into my eager hand. For some reason I decided to switch to cheese and another good roach was captured. Barry forayed down to the Tesco store for milk as I caught a superb two-pounder that couldn't resist the lure of the mature cheddar.

With a further two roach added to my tally, it was time to get underway and we poddled along the connecting arm, stopping to look at the newly-opened [14 June] Bishop's Bridge Road now soaring straight over the canal and railway directly to Sussex Gardens. By midday we had got back to Camden Market where, in lovely warm sunshine, I decided to add a fourth coat of varnish to the front doors.

Barry wandered around the market and reported that all manner of food was available but "The Ice Wharf" pub opposite was doing 2-4-1 meals. So, we indulged and were able to leave the boat unlocked, allowing the varnish to dry. 14:40 saw us wind and set off for Little Venice and beyond. 18:40 saw us tie up near Bull's Bridge on the offside where a single roach was the only reward for a couple of hours' fishing in cold, windy conditions. Home tomorrow!

The trains didn't keep us awake as we slept blissfully unaware that most of England's railways all pass over what seems to be the busiest bridge in the world. 07:45 was showing on the clock as I fished and listened to Nick Ferrari. The wind had abated somewhat but the piscatorial action was disappointing. 10:05 saw me tip maggots, cheese and sweetcorn [the latter labelled 'best before August 2002'] into the water and we made the final move for home in bright, occasionally cloudy but mostly sunny, weather. Nothing was moving, apart from the obligatory hire-boat that attempted to move off from Tesco, right under my bows! We soon left him behind and by noon were enjoying breakfast at The Toll House Tea Rooms whilst the water tank was filling. A traffic jam at the waterpoint due to several boats waiting for water + a gravel barge coming through, was soon sorted out and in no time I was ringing Jane Hendley's bell at Black Jack's Cottage in order to purchase some eggs. Just about 16:00 saw us back at base where we pumped out the loo and put Caie Two to bed for a well-earned rest.