Singlehanded sojourn

Nightmare! Despite arriving at HNA by 08:20 I didn't move off until nearly 13:00. The engine battery was flatter than gold leaf. Whereas once before it was a matter of obtaining a jump start from the domestic bank, this time, although the engine started with no problem, the gauges refused to work and the 'stop' button came out in sympathy. Harold, diamond geezer as always, eventually coaxed the gauges into life and I finally moved south. I arrived at the top of the Hanwell Flight by 19:30 just in time for Corry. Just before leaving for "The Fox" where I met Phil and Di, I had my first visitor, a large ginger and white cat. He was quite unconcerned and accepted my fussing without question. Linking up at "The Fox" we all then repaired to "The Magpie and Crown" for several pints and some delicious Thai food.

Underway by 08:15, I was soon sweating in my jacket 'doing' the Hanwell Flight. I met an uphill boat only at the last lock--typical! I caught up with "Free Spirit" at Clitheroe's Lock and we cruised 'Indian file' into the basin, spotting a jay, a little grebe and a whole host of parakeets later just onto the Thames itself. The last time I was here on a boat it was raining too [see:- Brentford Basin Blues elsewhere] does it ever stop here?

I watered up and went through the gauging lock, arriving at Thames Lock at 12:10. A windy wet cruise upstream to Teddington where a cuppa coffee was indulged in. Consulting Nicholson's guide, around West Molesey looked good for mooring but I settled for 200 yards above Kingston Bridge as it looked like rain again. Tied up by 15:00, I was looking forward to the rest!

08:15 up and radio on while the rain poured down. By 10:00 it had abated and I set off towards Staines. The showers came and went and the umbrella was in and out like a fart in a colander, to quote a former scurvy, mutinous crew member. The umbrella was a lifesaver although sometimes it was hard to hold with the added hazard of gusty conditions. I tried 3 ropes together for lock-rising purposes but the set-up proved too cumbersome and I reverted to tying front and rear as per normal. At Chertsey Lock I had a coffee whilst the lockie was at lunch. I must have a word with my crew--no-one comes out with food or drink at all! I was grateful to be inside when the heaviest shower of the day fell. After that it was plain sailing to "The Swan" at Staines, where I tied up at 15:00 and went to the library for E-mailing. The CD player is kaput--don't know why this should be. "Argos" at Staines reckon they'll change it if I get proof of purchase.

A day of mixed fortunes. I decided to try and swap the CD/Tape/Radio player at Argos and there was no problem. Later though, I caused the binoculars to fall to the ground and the lenses are now out of kilter again. The weather was a vast improvement on yesterday. Blue skies and sunshine all day, although a keen, occasional wind. Robin, affectionately known as 'Bastard' phoned to tell me he was at "The Anne Boleyn Hotel" opposite "The Swan" So he joined me for a cuppa before I finally left the moorings at 16:00--the longest stay I've ever had--25 hours! This was not before a gin palace asked to tie alongside. Consequently, when I slipped the moorings to head west there was a frisson of excitement from the gongoozler/drinkers with boats going here there and everywhere. I stopped by the waterpoint below Boveney Lock at 19:15 still facing west as attempts to turn back towards Windsor and tie up were thwarted by the strong current from the weir stream.

The Refleks stove did its job last night and the boat was warm and cosy this morning as 07:20 rolled around and I opened my peepers. Looking out of the window, the foam floating by, formed by the action of the weir, gave the appearance of a flock of swans with their heads down. One particularly lifelike bundle of bubbles, complete with long neck, turned out to be a swan after all!

Following a shower, I let the boat drift back some thirty feet and I filled the tank with H2O--so much easier with the large diameter pipe at the waterpoint. Topped up,a slight push to the bows caused the boat to turn about on the swift flow and head back to Windsor. At tickover I was tying up on Jenning's Wharf by 11:00.

Plenty of passing interest in the boat. I showed one couple through and they eagerly took my numbers--we'll see.

Shame on you Windsor! at 21:30 last night I had two yobs run down the length of my roof, when challenged they merely said 'Sorry.' In the small hours [01:40] a Jade Goody soundalike awoke me with 'There's a boat' followed by two more yobs running along the roof! It was another hour before the shouting and screaming from these low-lifes turning out of the clubs ceased to keep everyone awake and I could finally sleep. Fishing this morning produced some hard-fighting perch. Then it was off to the library in Eton--only to discover that it opened at 14:00! So, back at the boat, ropes were loosed and the westward trek resumed. Some incredibly hot sunshine mixed with showers were the order of the day, Cookham Lock approach was idyllic and I fished while the lockie had his lunch. Through the lock at 14:10 I stopped again for some more fishing with little success. Temple and Hurley Locks were hand-wound agony--followed by really heavy rain up to "The Flowerpot" jetty where I got soaked tying up. After Corry and the quads programme I went to sink a few pints in the pub, along with Mike who, as per usual, was tied to the upstream side of the mooring--a very pleasant finish to the day.

The rain in the night threatened to take the roof off but I slept on snugly and smugly. This morning the river was wreathed in mist--very mysterious-looking. I set off at 10:00 and made Henley by 11:00.

Mooring just above the bridge I repaired to the library and e-mailed for an hour, returning to the boat accompanied by a bag of chips--lovely!

Steady progress this afternoon brought me to Sonning by 17:05 and I made the decision to moor above the lock and dine at "The Bull," expensive food but wonderful quality. Fishing proved moderately successful prior to 'Bulling' but phone and TV signals varied from extreme crap to non-existent--no change there then!

Great kip last night, cosily listening to the incessant rain. I managed a brief maggot-drowning this morning before the rain came again and didn't let up until 11:45 by which time I was eager to move on. By 12:45 I was through Blake's Lock, having chatted with a fireman on a high-speed rescue craft, who was being assessed on his boat-handling skills by two BW men. They joined me through ' The Gut,' the name given to the stretch of water in the middle of Reading.

I pushed on under the M4 towards Theale and came to a stop tonight below Sulhamstead Lock by 17:15, intent on getting some fishing in before darkness fell. It wasn't to be, although I caught a perch in the gathering gloom, the rain came down again with a vengeance. However, it abated entirely as I write this log, about 30 minutes ago there was the most spectacular sunset I've seen in a long, long time. Red sky at night, shepherd's delight! Bring on the sun tomorrow!

As promised by God, the day dawned full of sunshine but the fishing didn't prove earth-shattering. At 09:45 I decided it was time to move. As I was untying the stern line, some downstreamers appeared and almost stole the lock. They ended up assisting me through it. At Tyle Mill Lock there were so many facilities, water, sanitary station,toilets,rubbish disposal and electric swing bridge, it made my head spin. This set the pattern for the next few hours, a swing bridge followed immediately by a lock and progress was dead slow. By 18:00 I had reached Thatcham

[or Tahtcham as a nearby sign proclaimed--proof readers, I s**t 'em!]

I began to fish and five casts brought five roach before darkness fell. Following advice I walked to the town centre and had a reasonable curry at 'Nawab' followed by a pint of Courage Best at "The King's Head." It was a route march into and out of town--so much for ten minutes! Back on board I drowsed and listened to Simon and Garfunkel as the TV reception was crap. Newbury tomorrow and E-mails + shopping awaits!

I came to at 08:15, surprised at just how quiet it was. When I opened the door I saw why--thick fog had deadened all the sounds. Fishing for a while I moved on at 10:00 and the next four hours were unremitting hard work with swing bridges almost as numerable as locks. Progress was understandably slow but eventually made Newbury and yes, the library was right by the waterside and yes, the internet was down--bugger!

I forayed into town and found a Tesco where I obtained bread and milk and an obliging Nokia shop where the young assistant kindly removed the dust that had accumulated under my phone's screen. It took him less than a minute to dismantle the front of the phone wipe it clean and replace--well done Nokia--all free too! Back at the boat I showed a prospective buyer around. She was very keen but aren't they all? I resumed my journey in glorious sunshine and negotiated a few more locks in a muck sweat. Whilst waiting for the levels to rise up at one lock I saw a large fallow deer not 20 yards distant, he stayed for quite a while and watched the boat come up and just as suddenly decided to leave. It was reminiscent of the scene in "Stand By Me" where the deer emerges from the forest and regards the young boy for a few moments before bolting away--magic.

Resuming fishing this morning it was like a procession, maggots on, cast out,roach in. It was not a relaxing time--I've never fished so successfully. Then, suddenly nothing for a while and a slow resumption of catching. By 10:00 though, it was time to go and Kintbury Lock brought a temporary halt to proceedings, mainly because "The Dundas Arms" was right next to it. A lovely pint of "Doom Bay" went down a treat. The pub counter consisted of 1967 pennies, polished by the passage of time. The other night in Thatcham the "King's Head" counter also consisted of pennies--but these were of George VI and Edward VIII vintage--who got the idea from whom?

At Hungerford Marsh Lock, a swingbridge over it has to be swung aside to allow boats to rise. As I did this, I just beat a black cow who wished to cross.

It stood on the edge of the 8 foot drop and bellowed its disapproval. I thought at one stage it was going to jump onto my boat but it wandered off to graze once more. Finished tonight at 17:20 at Froxfield Bottom Lock and walked to "The Pelican" on the A4 for a cod supper and pint of "Ramsbury's." Nicholson's lists this pub as "The Watermeadow Inn" the regulars had never heard of it--typical Nicholson's I say. The bridges are all named in my guide but the bridges have only numbers on so you still don't know where you are!

The fishing this morning was nothing short of phenomenal. The species were ringing the changes and good-sized fish of all types were interspersed with tiddlers--but they fought like the devil! Eventually, I had to move on or else I'd be there forever. 10:40 saw me underway and very slow progress through lots of Sunday fishing matches + the twenty locks I had to negotiate. Very few people about and the black hole re communications was much in evidence. Somewhere near Little Bedwyn my phone burst into life and I got one bar, just enough to ring Sheila and let her know I was O.K.

The summit level enabled me to sit down for a while in pleasant autumn sunshine. Then four more locks down to Wootton Rivers and another black hole--no TV means no Corry--I have to face that awful truth! No radios so no news and weather--in such idyllic surroundings it hits a jarring note. "The Royal Oak" does evening meals so I shall repair to there.

Great kip and moderate fishing this morning. Underway by 10:20 and no locks was the perfect antidote to yesterday's 20. Gliding to a stop at Pewsey Wharf I tied up and hitched a lift into the village. The first vehicle to appear, stopped and dropped me 30 seconds from the internet cafe which someone had told me was free. It had the most modern equipment I've ever seen and it was run by a man dressed as a woman. Think of those characters in the ad for "Bounty" kitchen wipes and you'll have a picture of him--weird or what?

I forgot to take this log for transcribing purposes, so after dealing with my e-mails, I walked back to the boat and filled the water tank before moving on. A serene sail to All Cannings by 16:30 and some great moorings. The boat in front has been here for 5 days awaiting the re-opening of Caen Hill, so I may stay here tomorrow. The quiet is complete, the fishing good--I got smashed up by something taking cheese at dusk. After Corry + Suez I walked in the pitch dark into the village and "The King's Arms." Nice pub, friendly regulars, good beer, "Henry's IPA" and "Malt and Hops."

More quality fish this morning but the boat ahead was running its engine for the whole time. I told the woman on board that the silence we talked about yesterday was not experienced by me owing to their generator and engine. She told me they'd invested in a super quiet one--I said it was as loud as a motorbike!

at 09:45 I set out for Devizes and arrived just after midday.

In a canally version of Evel Knievel, I approached the locks ahead but never actually went down them. They're not open until Friday and that would mean me getting stuck on the Thames when the closures start. I got to the library and did some e-mails. On the way back to the boat I got some milk, soup and cheese from Sainsbury's.

I made my way back to All Cannings for a second night. Fishing on cheese I caught a superb golden tench of about three pounds and several reasonable bream and roach before going for dinner at "The King's Arms," delicious home-made soup followed by roast duck with fresh vegetables. Back to the boat by 21:30 and a snooze in front of the telly.

08:10 when the eyelids raised, back to fishing but nothing to touch last night's tench. As the fishing went off the boil I checked out fuel, oil and water levels, all satisfactory. I also took the opportunity to fill the grease tank. 11:00 saw me going east with a vengeance. The weather was fantastic once more. Some lovely sun and very mild conditions too. I topped up the water tank at "The Barge" at Honeystreet.

I will get in there one day. Pewsey Wharf was busy when I passed so I didn't stop for a pint as originally planned. Although Wootton Rivers is a beautiful spot, I didn't stop there as I wanted to be clear of the communications blackspot before sundown. This I achieved as far as the TV and Corry were concerned but no-one told the radio and mobile phone!

I gaze at page 90 of my Nicholson's Guide and wonder how it took me all of five hours bar five minutes to travel down it. The KandA takes no prisoners--the single-hander climbing down from the summit at Wilton to the Thames at Reading is faced with a "Bad Road" i.e. all locks empty but with the added curse of a raised bottom paddle or open bottom gates or both. Consequently it takes an age to get anywhere at all.

I started at 08:30 at Crofton Top Lock and finished at 18:30 at Hungerford Lock. Ten hours of unremitting hard work, rain showers, sunshine and the boater's nightmare, bloody wind.

With Hungerford in the distance the KandA threw me one last obstacle. The swing bridge over lock 73 took me 45 minutes to negotiate, what with the wind and floating weed the size of The Isle of Wight wrapping itself around the prop and stalling the engine. The air was blue! An excellent curry and a pint of "Old Tripe" in "John of Gaunt" were needed to restore my good humour.

I thought with yesterday's exertions I'd sleep for ever, but I was wide awake by 07:15. The rain had been heavy in the night and the boat roof was covered in leaves that had been knocked off the trees. I saw a boat move off from the wharf about 100yards ahead so I pulled the boat into the glorious sunshine and poled her over to the other side. Once there I baked and fished for an hour or so. Then I walked the short distance to the library and E-mailed. On the way back I bought something for Sheila in an antiques shop that was packed with wonderful items including Clarice Cliff, Moorcroft and Lalique. A set of six cups and a matching jug was £1650! This was the first time I've actually seen this stuff that's so familiar from "Flog It!"

Back on board I fished for a little while before finally turning the ignition key at 13:15. 13:30 saw me stopped once again for water, just outside town. A pleasant afternoon in mild conditions brought me to Dreweat's Lock 79 where I decided to stop at 17:15. Fishing was moderate but the TV picture was excellent!

Johnny Walker, standing in for Brian Matthew was spouting his spiel in my ears as I set off at 08:45 towards Newbury. As per usual all locks encountered were against me and with a bottom paddle raised, sometimes both!

fter a gruelling morning, I sailed into Newbury just after 12 noon. Over to the library for a stonking 2 hour session, enabling me to transcribe most of this log, very satisfying. The only thing better would be to have a laptop and commit the log to floppy disk for uploading to Ian after the holiday is over.

Sainsbury's was the next port-of-call for milk, sausages, tomatoes and a TV guide for next week. Back on board I cooked up the remaining sausages and tomatoes from the ones I brought away. Then set off again at 16:00 finally finishing for the day at Widmead Lock 89 where I got in about 20 minutes of fishing before darkness fell and was entertained by God arranging for a huge flock of starlings coming home to roost--shades of Bill Oddie!

A peaceful night ended at 07:20 and, at 08:00, I was surprised to see "The Iron Lady" a dutch barge coming upstream through the lock.. I'd seen this vessel 10 days ago at Sulhamstead Lock. After fishing for an hour, I'd just finished showering when a "Reading Marine" boat from Aldermaston came downstream and entered the lock--I quickly joined them and enjoyed the bliss of sharing all the locks and swing bridges to Aldermaston--so much easier when you have help! Ed and Pemby and their kids Olivia, Georgia, Orlando and Jocasta made good company--the kids eager to assist at locks. The rain began to get heavy at Woolhampton and the others stopped for lunch but I pressed on to Aldermaston Lock and walked the short distance to the "Butt Inn" for an excellent lunch of steak and stilton pie with fresh vegetables and "Flowers Original" and "London Pride."

I decided to stop above Towney Lock at 17:10 and unfortunately, as I was tying up, a gust of wind took my umbrella off of the roof and into the water, sinking before I could get to it. Inspired, I used the 'Seasearch' magnet, hoping to get lucky. In fact I got more unlucky as the cord to the magnet parted company from the cork float at the end of the line. Now I was reduced to using and losing a few spinners/plugs/lures from my fishing tackle box. All this activity didn't stop a pike from attempting to grab a lure while recovery operations were in progress. Now, if I'd set out to catch a pike.....

At the end of the day I was down one umbrella, if I'd have philosophically accepted that initially, it would have saved a lot of effort and I may have been able to get some fishing done. As it was, I retrieved the magnet just before it got dark and began to rain heavily again--not the best of day-ends!

Cosy boat last night with the Refleks working the heat oracle. Fishing this spot this morning for the first time [for fish!] produced nothing so I put the magnet to work alongside the boat where I lost one of the spinners/plugs/lures last night--success! After ½ a dozen trawls a jointed plug was recovered. I moved on towards the Thames at 08:45 and whilst negotiating the lock/swing bridge at Tyle Mill, met Ron and Myra Glover on 'Prinsesse Estrith' [sic] who then accompanied me all the way to Reading--bliss--some sustained help at last.

That help was never more needed than at County Lock just outside Reading Town Centre.

I took the right-hand bend fairly widely in order to avoid a hire boat moored on the first set of bollards and consequently got swept into the fast water of the adjacent weir, with the result being, I got trapped against the boom--unable to get off. Ron, along with two passing helpers attached a long line to my stern and the three of them pulled me back into slack water. I was then able to motor across to the lock safely-phew!

Another day of mixed fortunes. The current was such that fishing would have been a waste of time, so, just after 09:00 I entered Caversham Lock and passed through towards Mapledurham. A 'hairy' entrance across the strong flow and the lockie gave me a 'strong current' warning card. The lockies can advise you to stop until the flow lessens but are not authorised to tell you to stop. I went on to Pangbourne Meadows, where, in bright sunshine, I moored and forayed in to town.

I eventually got on the internet and contacted DVLA re my car tax due on 1 November. They replied that as long as one month has not elapsed since the tax was due, no action will be taken. Over the phone I managed to renew my TV licence and pay my phone bill!

Lunch was had in the 'Ditty Duck' tea rooms--home-made vegetable soup,and potato skins with mushrooms and stilton cheese--delicious. The log is all written up bar this entry. Moving on after shopping for bread, new slippers and 2 CDs + 1 video, the lockie again advised me not to travel but a Goring mooring [?] was my intention. A very strong flow all the way was intensified at Goring where Tony, on the boat in front, took my centre line but when I tied the back, the boat attempted to turn back downstream and nearly sunk before the line snapped and I had to leap aboard, untie the back, re-start the engine and roar off downstream and turn about. Coming back to the mooring for a second time, I put the nose in first where willing hands grabbed the front line and the incredibly fast current brought the stern alongside with alacrity! I could be here for days if this flow does not abate!

The ' fresh ' was still thundering past the boat like an express train this morning. Speaking to a fellow boater, he told me that the lock displayed 'yellow boards' i.e. proceed with caution. So, at 11:32, we did! Cleeve Lock, some 15 minutes above Goring had some divers working until noon, but phoned down at 11:30 that they'd finished their watery explorations, [no, I never did find out what they were doing.]

I filled with water and watched a downstream boat come a cropper as he crashed into the mooring bollards in the 'riptide.' From Cleeve to Benson Lock, progress was like drawing teeth--painful and slow. Any downstream traffic went past me like a bullet--I expected Meatloaf to be at the front of these boats singing ' Bat out of Hell' or similar. Benson Lock was finally reached at 13:50--just enough time for a Marmite sandwich and a coffee before the lockie sent me on my way. Day's Lock by 15:30 and another really slow haul to "The Plough" at Long Wittenham via the navigable weir stream. Trying to moor proved very tricky with the boat trying to turn in the flow, but eventually I managed to secure the centre line to the jetty then, by extending the front line and throwing it ashore, got that secure too! Up to the pub for a few pints of IPA and liver and onions--great! Just for a change there was no mobile phone signal.

A very mild night--I thought that the flow might have abated. No such luck--when a swan glided by with his feet tucked nonchalantly behind his neck and his beak pursed in a tuneless whistle but still doing approximately 40 m.p.h. I knew that the start this morning was going to be tricky. At first I attempted a clockwise turnabout but neatly took a slice out of the mudbank opposite. Powering around into the stream once more, I tried counter-clockwise and successfully trimmed the tree on the other bank. Backing off, I finally managed to shoot down the weir stream and turn laboriously into the lock cut. The lockie gave me another red warning card to add to my collection. The run to Culham Lock though was fractionally easier than yesterday. Culham to Abingdon was easier still. Mooring at Abingdon went well and I forayed into town and got an hour on the internet. At Somerfield on the way back, milk,soup and a TV guide were purchased.

From Abingdon at 14:00 to Sandford by 16:30, the run took place in bright sunshine. The lockie allowed me to moor on the last upstream bollard and , because the "King's Head" above the lock was closed for refurbishment, he told me of "The Fox" a short walk up the hill into the village. After some fishing, the first for four days and some TV, I made the walk and it was quiz night! I sat in on a team and we won!. Good beer in the shape of IPA--a very pleasant evening indeed!

A chilly start to the day, but the sun soon warmed things up. I fished for a while but, frustratingly, although I caught a few fish, there was no indication each time, so I decided to move on. Iffley Lock was soon reached and the river seemed to have calmed down.

Nearing Olney Lock though, the familiar uphill battle resumed. Speaking to Ray, the lockie, he advised me that the next 200 yards above the lock would be tricky, but I should be O.K. tying up at "The Waterman's Arms" and I was.

I enjoyed a home-made beef curry and blackcurrant cheesecake with ice cream. The governor, Henry, is a spitting image of Will Hay, star of the silver screen back in the 30s.

13:30 saw me just about to move off when I noticed the boat in front was 'Lupin' belonging to Dave Wright, a fellow HNA man. The engine was running but no-one was home. I left a note and with the Thames running hard against me in the narrow channel, I finally escaped its clutches and turned into the arm leading to the South Oxford Canal by 14:00. Lucy's Wharf, above Isis Lock, is changing fast with lots of building work going on, cranes working right over the canal with notices warning boaters to beware in case they don't see construction work on the right-hand-side and overhead!

Back to the locks that employ a windlass to operate wasn't so much of a problem but the lift bridges were! They are hinged from the offside and the singlehander is stymied by this. On a couple of occasions a following boat crew helped out but once I called on a hapless passer-by and another time asked a nearby farmer to do the honours! Stopped for the night at "The Jolly Boatman" in Thrupp by 17:45.

A real lazy start today. 'Sounds of the Sixties' had long finished before I fired up the engine and slowly made my way to the waterpoint at Thrupp Wide.

Luckily, someone lifted the bridge for me. The day was very mild if overcast and I donned a jacket only about 16:00. The narrow locks are reasonably easy on one's own but, in several cases, I had help from following boaters. One such pair were out on their maiden voyage in a magnificent Kingsground boat that they waited 9 months for. I called a halt at 17:15 in fast fading light at Mill Lift Bridge in Lower Heyford. The fishing drew a blank, so I'm off to "The Bell" for a good meal.

The meal was excellent, I returned to the boat only to be faced with a crap TV picture. Deirdre texted to say that Dave and her were coming to the pub so I backtracked and was only one sip into my pint when they both appeared and a convivial session ensued. An extra hour in bed tonight--I think I can use it!

Despite alcoholic assistance and an extra hour in bed I was up and fishing by 07:15, even at that unearthly hour a woman walking her dog caused me to rush back inside the boat, having flung open the doors, naked as nature intended, to greet the day and assess the weather! Co-opting some passers-by into opening the lift bridge I chugged slowly up to Lupin about a mile ahead and tied alongside. Then Dave had a fishing lesson and caught about ½ dozen tiny gudgeon/bream/perch. I had several small roach/gudgeon/perch + 1 decent perch of about ½ pound. At noon we attempted to set off but struggled to 'snatch' Lupin off of the mud. Eventually, with the help of 'Trinity' steered by Dick and Lindsay, we succeeded. Allen's Lock was the scene of a 5 boat queue but we all spread out and progressed inexorably towards Aynho where they all sing "Aynho sunshine when she's gone!"

at Chisnell's Lift Bridge I was intrigued to find Dave stripped to the waist and dressed in pajama bottoms and flip-flops. Apparently one of Lupin's ornaments, a large skull, had somehow fallen in the water, so Dave gingerly lowered himself into the cut to attempt to find it with his feet. Although sunny, the water was freezing, as one could tell by looking at Dave's face! He found his skull though and the picture proves it.

The bridge was held in the open position by a ' Banbury Stick' a pole of a specific length that is topped with a round knob and rammed into place beneath the upraised platform. Dave carries this piece of canal curio aboard Lupin for just that purpose. It beats trying to tie the bridge in the open position and is definitely more secure!

We called a halt near King's Sutton in gathering gloom around 16:30 but the day had been the usual glorious sunshine, albeit accompanied by a keen breeze. Dave and Deirdre invited me to dinner aboard Lupin where we feasted like kings on a chicken pasta creation of Deirdre's. I contributed some Hoegaarden to the proceedings and returned to my boat to watch Corry, Dave's digital gadget that finds up to 50 channels and plays them through his laptop failed to get a signal. I got a reasonable picture, so was happy.

Tried fishing this morning from 07:15 but not much return. As I was cornflaking, having already showered, Dave walked up and I suggested getting underway ASAP around 09:00. A steady run to Banbury, going under the M40 three times, so convoluted is the Oxford Canal [early canals followed the contours of the land because the technology of aqueducts and embankments had yet to be learnt] and it brought us into the excellent moorings in the heart of Banbury by noon. I set off through the shopping centre to re-discover the library only to arrive at its doors as it shut for the day--bloody typical! It was the only day it did so--for the rest of the week 19 or even 20:00 is the closing time. I purchased some fresh maggots and after an excellent fish and chip dinner, returned to the boat and fished solidly from 14:40 to 18:15 producing some nice fish, especially a 1lb. perch and a common carp of about 3lbs.

Up at 07:00 and fishing by 07:15 but only two small ones. After ablutions it was off to the library. I managed to get almost an hour there. Somerfields on the way back for supplies then back to the boat and greeted Dave and Deirdre. They announced that they were not moving today but I wanted to move on, which I did at 11:45. Hardwick, Little Bourton and Slat Mill Locks were climbed in very dark, rainy conditions. The skies cleared by the time I watered up at Cropredy Wharf. The church clock struck twice as I moved off into Cropredy Lock. Looking at Nicholson's I saw that 8 locks were soon to come so I tied for the day on the 48 hour moorings above the lock and fished with a vengeance. What a spot!! I had several large roach then a superb mirror carp of 6-8 lbs.- followed later by my first ever crucian carp of about 8 ozs. but what a fight! Then, even better, another crucian of about 1 lb. Eventually, in the dark by 17:00, I called a halt to the piscenery and came in and played the tape purchased from Oxfam for 99p--all well-known musical mood tracks--great!

With the change of month came a change of clothes. Trousers replaced shorts and socks adorned feet as the night had proved very chilly. A start was made at 09:35 and, in the sun, the jacket proved too much. Elkington's Lock, the third of the day, was the scene of a genteel enquiry by another, "Oi, are you gonna f**king close that top gate?" Turning round I spied Dave, with a big grin. He'd started off from Banbury at 07:00 and caught me up. Along with Deirdre lockwheeling, both boats climbed the five Claydon Locks in bright sunshine to the summit of the Oxford canal. Through Fenny Compton Tunnel with no roof to it, we entered the tortuous curves around Wormleighton and passed one side of Griffin's Farm, only to pass the other a mere 25 minutes later! To quote Nicholson's " Brindley seemed to have had a horror of straight lines."

Knowing that Lupin was at least four hours ahead I set off at 08:55 after a having a shower, for a 90 minute spell that brought me to Napton Top Lock. Despite an uphill boat passing me, all the locks were empty--let's hope the work causing the stoppage on 6 November will cure the leaking! 13:25 saw me filling the water tank below the flight. BW were in evidence, assembling paraphernalia ready for next Monday.

After a coffee I set off for Braunston with the sun very warm and pleasant on my back. Very gradually, the depth under my keel increased and progress, initially slow, got better, although the temperature was dropping almost in synchronisation with the depth gained and I gratefully donned my anorak and gloves to tackle the last hour or so. 16:15 was on the clockface as I left the Oxford Canal and motored onto the more familiar Grand Union. Plenty of boats were moored up as I rounded Braunston Turn but two rings with my name on them made themselves known to me just by the entrance to Braunston Marina. With the light fading fast I killed the engine and retreated inside the boat. A pub meal later, I think! Also, I'll check out the library location for tomorrow. "The Wheatsheaf" told me two things:- they didn't do food but there was a Chinese franchise within and the library is only a mobile one! The Chinese meal was superb and enjoyed back on the boat.

A very frosty night--at 07:50 as I was making tea, a boat passed by bound for the flight-damn! Far too early to move on yet. I decided to fish and wait for a boat to go up the six locks with. Eventually, Margo and Terry Stroud on 'Florian' moored behind me, had that honour. Terry and I had spoken before at Coppermill--he's also an ex-fireman and apparently Florian is the patron saint of firemen---never heard of him!

Margo and Terry turned onto the Leicester Arm at Norton Junction to their moorings and I stopped at Buckby Top Lock for a coffee and to dump the rubbish. Before I'd finished the drink, two boats came up and so I took advantage and descended the lock, mooring up in the pound below for a pleasant 30 minutes fishing. Then a lone boater came up and again I set off in earnest with the time on the clock reading 14:00. The flight was in my favour but gates had to be opened. The last two locks were absolute pigs and it wasn't until 16:00 that I finally emerged into the Whilton Pound, heading for Weedon and Nether Heyford.

Woke up to a warm boat and sunshine. Tried fishing but only one small roach better than last night's nothing. Set off after 'Sounds Of The Sixties' in warm conditions and stopped just past Concoform Marine in the hopes of better piscenery. It was not to be, but a passer-by told me of a Budgen supermarket on the A5 about ten minutes walk away. I duly bought bread and milk and used the cash machine to replenish funds. Still looking for Furnace Wharf, I passed Stowe Hill Wharf, High House Wharf and even the private Weedon and Flore Wharfs before finally, at Bridge 32, I found my goal. 13:22 said the clock, 'Fred Tarry' closed on Saturdays at 13:00 said the man I found in the yard but, with me falling to my knees sobbing bitterly, agreed to start the diesel pump and 50 litres of diesel went into my tank. It would have been touch and go as to whether I'd make it home without. Now that I've got some I can use the Refleks and Eberspacher with impunity!

The man okayed me staying put until the morning. The sun was out and very warm, I was out of the wind and had a good depth of weed-free water right in front of me. I fished contentedly for a while, then walked into Nether Heyford to check out "The Forester's Arms" [IPA bitter] and "The Olde Sun" [Cumberland bitter] both good beers, both good pubs. I realised I'd been in the Forester's before. The Olde Sun has a fabulous collection of metal adverts and brass ornaments that are worth a careful perusal. I finally opted for the Forester's for lamb stew with mint dumplings--mmm!

Up in time for the 08:00 news. No frost last night--typical, just when I have the diesel to spare--never mind. A lovely warm boat is a pleasure to be savoured. In breezy conditions I fished for little reward.' Steve Wright's Love Songs' were playing on the radio as I cast off. My tiny pocket radio has decided not to work so I put the little mains radio on the hatch and listened while chugging through Bugbrooke to Gayton, passing an intriguing sign that offered "Goat's Eggs--£1:50 a dozen!" I guess I'll never understand the ways of the country!

I watered up at Gayton and disposed of the rubbish whilst chewing the fat with other boaters. One boat was heading for Becket's Park at Northampton for a massive fireworks display. I was momentarily tempted but 34 locks for one evening's entertainment [17 each way] was too steep a price to pay, so I opted for Blisworth tunnel instead. 36 minutes of subterranean gloom and ghost boats that disappeared later, I emerged at Stoke Bruerne where 50 or so gongoozlers did their stuff and watched me descend the first of the seven locks of the flight. I convinced a few to follow me and assist at the next one too! A singlehander has to take full advantage when he can! Emerging from the bottom lock I moored up in the middle of nowhere-the nearest place being Grafton Regis further south. The frying pan gets an outing tonight.

Despite the fabulous red sky last night, I awoke to a fog-shrouded landscape--the sun even at 07:15 trying to burn its way through the mist. I tried fishing and after several missed bites finally caught my prey-a gudgeon all of two inches long. I moved on at 09:45 for a very quiet cruise with no boats whatsoever and arrived at "The Barley Mow" at Cosgrove by 11:20. A few decent roach came to my hook and then I repaired inside the pub for a pint of "Pitch Black" a delicious full stout. The governor there gave me the location of the library at Wolverton and, after a few more roach, I set sail to it. The library shut in March and relocated to the City Centre said the notice on the door. On the way back to the boat I came across another one-closed Mondays-unbelievable! I bought some fodder at Tesco's and considered staying overnight in order to use the library tomorrow. However, my mind was made up on my return to the boat. It had been set adrift and all my rooftop gear, boat hook, boat pole and mop had been slung in! An old lady walking on the other side in a small park volunteered the information that ' 3 youths' had been responsible. I even saw the a**eholes as I made my way back to the boat with my shopping. I was livid-if I'd have caught them at it, they would have joined the rooftop gear! In disgust I managed to retrieve everything and made my way to "The Black Horse" on the outskirts of Great Linford where I had a decent pint then a steak and mushroom pie back on the boat at 18:30.

On my way to the pub, my mood was lightened by the behaviour of two men on the top of bridge 75. As I approached I could see that one was behind the other, they had their backs to me and appeared to be doing something involving the far balustrade. You can guess what's coming can't you? I didn't at the time. Seeing as this account is for family consumption, let's just say that they were indulging in 'uphill gardening.' It wasn't until I passed under the bridge and looked up into the 'gardenee's' face that the penny dropped!

Around 09:45 I let go fore and aft and poodled off. Within 5 minutes I was up the backside of 'Ripple Chaser' and so it remained for the next few hours. I kept back as long as possible but had to keep returning to tickover every time I caught him up. Drawing teeth I eventually made Fenny Stratford Lock with a fall of 1' 1.'' A local told me that the reason for the lock was that the pound between there and Cosgrove was always leaking due to the nature of the land the canal passed through. So, the water was lowered by 1' to alleviate the problem, necessitating the lock. I was given the location of Bletchley library and set off for it, walking miles out of my way but made it eventually. 30 minutes free then £1 for every subsequent 30 minutes. I stayed for ½ hour! Why Bucks. insists on charging for a service that's free elsewhere is a mystery? Roll on Herts. that's what I say! On the way back to the boat I dined at 'Mr. Tea's Cafe', roast beef, very tasty.

To make up for the lack of a TV signal last night, the fishing this morning proved quite productive with a decent perch taking top billing. In mild conditions I set off at 09:50 and was soon at Tesco's in Leighton Buzzard where I bought milk, sausages, marmalade and a TV guide. I examined the waterpoint outside but it's not connected because Tesco will not allow BW to link into their water main. BW installed the apparatus before asking Tesco this vital question!

Following a coffee I negotiated Grove, Grove Church and Slapton Locks then filled the water tank. Next came Horton, Ivinghoe Two and Seabrook Three. Emerging from Seabrook Top Lock, I jokingly moaned to a mum and two daughters that ' they should have met me at the swingbridge further on than at the lock.' Mum apologised and said she'd gladly 'do the honours' so, they piled into the front well-deck for a ride back to the bridge where they dutifully leapt out and did the necessary. With goodbyes ringing in my ears, I rounded the bend and moored up just past Pitstone Wharf for the night.

07:00 I was awake and made some tea and returned to a warm bed whilst listening to the radio. After showering I dressed and started fishing just as the sun climbed over the trees opposite and shone directly in my face-it was very awkward having to squint and pull my hat down over my forehead to see what I was doing. In November you can't knock it though!

The first cast produced a huge roach which slipped the hook and, although several others were landed, they didn't compare at all. Moving on by 10:00, the two Marsworth Locks came and went. I called into the offices of BW at the junction of the Aylesbury Arm, hoping to pick up some pamphlets but the offices have closed and moved to Milton Keynes--where exactly? I never saw them when passing through. No doubt the empty buildings will be turned into upmarket homes. Yet another case of BW selling the family silver.

The flight of seven locks that begin at Startops End loomed ahead but luckily Kim and Sid on their boat, "Capilano" had seen me coming and waited. With Kim lockwheeling we cleared the flight in just over the hour and parted company when they decided to investigate the Wendover Arm. I continued through the summit pound to Cow Roast where I had lunch in the "Cow Roast Inn." Some lovely Thai food which the Inn specialises in.

After lunch I was filling Cow Roast Lock in order to start my downhill trip home to Coppermill when Roger and Vivian appeared on 'Calypso.' They accompanied me all the way to Berkhamsted where they moored next to me for the night. I went to the library and got in a good session on the computer and booked a further session for tomorrow. A cold night but the Refleks is warming the boat nicely.

A cold, cold night but the stove did its job and the boat was a cosy retreat from the frost outside. Tea was taken and fishing was performed after ablutions but to no avail. Foraying into town I visited all the charity shops,ever mindful of the fact that I let some decent binoculars go on a previous visit. But, at Oxfam just opposite the road containing the library, I struck gold and got some 8x30 Hunter binoculars for £10. This will allow me to get the usual ones repaired. They've been out of alignment since I dropped them earlier on during this trip. In the library I caught up with the log and answered a few e-mails too.

Whilst there I took a phone call from Angela Walsh who I arranged to meet back at the boat after the library session was over. This I did and she, like so many before her, was very keen. I'll put the celebrations on hold though and see what transpires. I moved on at 13:50 from Berko, stopping at Bourne End by 16 :20 above lock 59. I asked some locals, Hugh and Vicky, just where this pub that I've never been able to find is and they explained and recommended "The Anchor" as opposed to "The White Horse" which is more restaurant-like. The Anchor is a real pub, great home-made food, good beer [IPA] and a friendly crowd! Hugh and Vicky came in and were pleased to see me there-I'll definitely come again!

Fishing again produced a blank in what otherwise would seem to be the perfect spot. I fell into conversation with Lin who owns "The Lady Godiva" an ex-inspection launch that I knew as "The Lord Harry" back in 1992 when I did the Avon Ring with my mate, Robin. In fact we did a little dissertation at the time on the uniqueness of this vessel.

I moved on at 10:10 down towards Boxmoor when Dave Wright rang to ask if Deirdre could stay with me for the day whilst he ' masonicked' this afternoon and evening. Yes folks, despite his bluff exterior, Dave is a fully-paid-up apron and trowel enthusiast-what can you expect from someone who used to be a Morris Dancer? I stopped the boat above Apsley at Durrant's Hill Road, with the intention of indulging in a curry later. Deirdre arrived about 15:00 and I fished on for a bit until the temperature dropped somewhat. We retired inside the boat and watched some TV before making the 20 minute walk to the curry house. I had a chicken phal which the waiter took pains to point out that ' It is very hot!' ' I know,' was my reply-and it was-but very tasty.

Deirdre had chicken malayan, a few degrees down the heat scale. Being a Saturday, the place was packed. After the meal we returned to the boat and watched a history of University Challenge. Dave and his fellow mason, Ray arrived and we all had tea and coffee before they all departed and I had the boat to myself once more.

I listened to the Cenotaph Service after ' Love Songs' and went off after the two-minute silence as the last post rang out over a silent Whitehall. Taking things nice 'n' easy I arrived above Nash Mills around 12:45 and put in an hour's maggot-drowning for a few perch and roach but nothing special. On the move again just after 14:10 I soon saw the completed flats built on the old Ovaltine site at King's Langley. The houses at each end of the development look fine but the middle blocks of flats look a bit impersonal and prison-like to me-still, it all looks better than the derelict factory they replace.

A windy night meant not much sleep with the boat knocking against the bank every so often. I tried fishing this morning simply because it was the last time this holiday but it was a total blank. 09:10 and I was off around the right-angle bend that led to Albert's Two Locks in Cassiobury Park. Disaster struck at Cassio Lock when I set the lock to emptying and walked off to talk to a liveaboard boater. A shout from a fellow boater crossing the lock gates that the boat was on the cill, whilst fortuitous because the boat didn't sink, was too late to prevent a broken rudder bearing. Ironic that this should happen on the last day. It just shows that you can't afford to let concentration slip for a second, as accidents are just waiting to happen!